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Overview

We’re so excited for you to start stitching one of our Christmas stockings! This is your stitch guide, which will serve as your road map as you work through this project. It is organized into sections so that you can easily navigate to exactly what you need.

Project Details

- Canvas Details: Interlock #13
- Needle Size: Bohin Tapestry #22
- Number of Colors: 12

I believe that anyone can stitch an heirloom and I believe that perfectly imperfect stitching is gorgeous. I include this illustration as a reminder that this is what the design will look like when you’ve finished stitching. So, if you ever get too obsessed with that single weird stitch, take a breath, look at this image, and think about the bigger picture.

Design Image

The Basics of Stitching

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The Basics of Stitching

Using the Right Number of Threads

For a 13-count canvas (which is what you have), I suggest knotting together these amounts:

  • 6-strand metallic: one strand
  • 2-ply crewel wool (like Appletons crewel wool): two strands
  • 4-ply tapestry yarn (like Silk & Ivory): one strand
  • 6-strand embroidery floss: one strand
  • No. 8 perle cotton: two strands

Note: Appletons 2-ply crewel wool is my favorite, and what I provide with most Spider Spun kits.

If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

The Basics of Stitching

Choosing the Correct Color

If there is any doubt, like if there seems to be more than one color on an intersection, you should stitch with the color that is most prominent on that intersection. 

The Basics of Stitching

Starting A New Thread

Assuming you’re using two strands, thread a 30-ish inch length through the needle and knot the ends together. When knotted, it should be about the length from your hand to your elbow.

  1. Poke the needle through the front of the canvas about five holes away from where you’ll start stitching. There’s an ugly “waste knot” on the front of the canvas, but you’ll cut it off shortly.
  2. Bring the needle from the back of the canvas to the front at your starting point. There should be a half-inch of thread stretched across the back, connecting the waste knot to your first stitch. 
  3. Stitch toward the knot, encasing the thread tail. Once your stitches reach the waste knot, carefully snip it off from the front.
Tip icon
Pro Tip!

Once you get comfortable stitching and have a few more stitches on your canvas, you won’t need to knot your yarn every single time. You can just thread the needle and make sure the ends are even. Then, pull the needle through a few stitches on the back of the canvas (like how you would tie off a thread), and poke the needle up through the front where you want to begin stitching.

The Basics of Stitching

Ending A Thread

  1. When you have about three inches of thread left on the needle, take your needle to the back of the canvas.
  2. Insert the needle through five or so existing stitches, then pull taut. You may have noticed that this is the reverse of how you started the thread :)
  3. Snip the thread tail just outside the stitches. 

The Basics of Stitching

All About Tent Stitches

The most basic (and classic) needlepoint stitches are called “tent stitches.” Put simply, needlepoint is one diagonal stitch over each intersection of your canvas.

Tent stitches always slant from the lower left to the upper right, like this: /////

There are three types of tent stitches: Half-Cross Stitch, Continental Stitch, and Basketweave Stitch. All look the same from the front, but different on the back of the canvas. Each provides a different amount of structure and coverage.

You don’t have to stick to just one type of stitch for each project. In fact, most of my canvases are a mixture of all three types of tent stitches.

If you are lost in a specific area, you can pop over to the Stitch Guide section to see exactly which stitches I recommend.

Half-Cross Stitch

Half-Cross Stitch

Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again to make the detail pop.

Learn More
Continental Stitch

Continental Stitch

I like to use this stitch for any small area. This stitch has medium coverage. It’s not ideal for medium or large areas because it causes the canvas to skew. But if you can't figure out basketweave, you can use this everywhere!

Learn More
Basketweave Stitch

Basketweave Stitch

Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave should be used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable than the other tent stitches.

Learn More

Your Stitch Plan

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Your Stitch Plan

Order of Operations

If you’re wondering about which colors or stitches to use on a specific area, here is how I would approach stitching this design. This is certainly not the only way to do it, but if you’re looking at the canvas and wondering where to start, hopefully this helps.

Just remember, there are no needlepoint police — it’s totally okay if you don’t follow these rules. Stitch in a way that makes you happy :)

Design Image

Stitching by area of the canvas

I stitch by “area” of the canvas. Within each area, I first stitch the tiny details, then move on to the small and medium areas. At the very end of each section, I will fill in the larger sections, which are usually backgrounds. The big blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings.

My suggested order of operations

1. Greenery details (topiary trees, garlands, wreaths)
2. Light post
3. Fence and fir tree
4. Bushes
5. House (details, window frames, door, background, roof)
6. Sleigh
7. Name
8. Simple areas (snow, sky)
9. Snowflakes

If you’re a beginner…

If you're a beginner, I recommend you practice your stitches a little first. On this canvas, I would start by trying out the Continental Stitch on the tree flower pots. Then, I would move on to trying out the Basketweave Stitch on the window panes, making sure to skip stitches for the muntins (details). Once you get confident with your stitching, you can move onto whichever area compels you.

Your Stitch Plan

Thread Color Key

Each yarn requires a different amount of strands. Please follow these guidelines to stitch your stocking:

  • Appletons crewel wool: stitch using 2 strands of yarn
  • Silk & Ivory: stitch using 1 strand of yarn
Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle • Fence Area - Tree: Mid-green background of outdoor tree
• Greenery - Topiaries: Lighter background color
• Greenery - Wreath: Lighter background color
• Greenery - Garland: Lighter background color
Forest 298 232 Chutney • Greenery - Garland: Dark accents
• Greenery - Wreath: Dark accents
• Greenery - Topiaries: Dark accents
• Fence Area - Tree: Dark green outdoor tree accents
Fawn 304 228 Rye • Fence Area - Tree: Tree trunk
• House: House, window, and door accents
Mint 353 182 Killarney Light Post: Garland on light post
Gold 473 88 Dandelion • Name: Name shadow
• House: House
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red • Greenery - Wreath: Wreath bow
• Greenery - Spray of Berries on Front Door: Red berries
• Greenery - Topiaries: Topiary pots
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe House: Window panes
Royal 823 101 Larkspur Background: Sky
Peacock 834 211 Marsh • Greenery - Spray of Berries on Front Door: Dark green color behind berries
• Bushes: Bushes
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream • House: Accents on roof, window frames, and door
• Greenery - Garland: Dots appearing on top of the garland
• Light Post: Light yellow of lamp glow
Bleach 991B 02 White • Name: Name
• Bushes: Snow on bushes
• Snow: Snowflakes, snow on ground
Black 993 12 Black • Fence Area - Fence: Fence
• Sleigh: Sleigh
• House: Roof
• Light Post: Light post

Step-by-Step Stitch Guide

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Light Post

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Mint 353 182 Killarney Garland on light post Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Light post Basketweave
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream Light yellow of lamp glow Basketweave

Let's start with something simple! Start with the garland on the light post in Mint using Basketweave.

Next, work the light post itself in Black using Basketweave.

Finally, stitch the light yellow of the lamp's glow in Cream using Basketweave.

Greenery

A few pro tips about the greenery!

  • First, I personally find greens the hardest colors to see differences in. To avoid any stitching confusion, I pick one color to stitch first. Usually that's the darker color. Then, I won't have any issues seeing the remaining background color, and it's quick to fill in.
  • Secondly, the greenery details are feathery, especially at the edges. It's easy to get carried away with stitching one color and encroach a little on another. I wouldn't get too worked up if I missed a stitch here or there, or accidentally used the wrong color in a place or two. Just make sure to go back at the end of your work to ensure all the intersections are covered.
  • Stitch in whatever order you'd like! It doesn't matter if you stitch the wreath before the topiaries, or after!

Wreath

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Wreath bow Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Dark accents Continental
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Lighter background color Continental

Stitch the wreath bow in Scarlet using Continental.

Add the dark accents in Forest using Continental.

Fill the lighter background color in Fir using Continental.

Topiaries

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Forest 298 232 Chutney Dark accents Continental
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Lighter background color Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Topiary pots Basketweave

Work the dark accents of the topiaries in Forest using Continental.

Stitch the lighter background color in Fir using Continental.

Fill the topiary pots in Scarlet using Basketweave.

Spray of Berries on Front Door

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested StitchSpecial Stitch
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red berries Half-CrossFrench Knots
Peacock 834 211 Marsh Dark green color behind berries Continental

Next, stitch the red berries in Scarlet using Half-Cross! I would stitch a bunch of the dots at once, without cutting your yarn in between.

Also, if you want to take the stitching to the next level, you can use French Knots for the ribbon dots instead of the Half-Cross stitch. Honestly, there’s no need to decide now, you can stitch them in Half-Cross for the time being and come back in at the end and put French Knots over the Half-Cross stitches 🙂

Work the dark green branch color behind berries in Peacock using Continental.

Garland

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested StitchSpecial Stitch
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream Dots appearing on top of the garland Half-CrossFrench Knots
Forest 298 232 Chutney Dark accents Continental
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Lighter background color Continental

You may want to stitch the cream dots overlapping the garland now, to avoid having to skip stitches. Stitch the dots appearing on top of the garland in Cream using Half-Cross or Continental. This is another great place to use Half-Cross. Regardless, I would not cut off my thread between dots, I would just leave enough slack on the back so the canvas doesn't bunch up.

Add the dark accents to the garland in Forest using Continental.

Fill the lighter background color in Fir using Continental.

Bushes

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Snow on bushes Basketweave
Peacock 834 211 Marsh Bushes Basketweave

First, work the snow on bushes in Bleach using Basketweave.

Pro tip! White yarn can sometimes look thin because it’s not plumped by dye, so for the snow, make sure to use Basketweave for extra coverage.

Finish up by stitching the bushes in Peacock using Basketweave.

Fence Area

Fence

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Black 993 12 Black Fence Continental

Stitch the fence in Black using Continental.

Tree

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Forest 298 232 Chutney Dark green outdoor tree accents Continental
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Mid-green background of outdoor tree Basketweave
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree trunk Basketweave

Next, add in the outdoor tree! Stitch the dark green outdoor tree accents in Forest using Continental or Basketweave, whichever works better for you.

Fill in the mid-green background in Fir using Basketweave.

Stitch the tree trunk in Fawn using Basketweave.

House

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested StitchSpecial Stitch
Fawn 304 228 Rye House, window, and door accents Continental
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream Accents on roof, window frames, and door ContinentalFrench Knots
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Window panes Basketweave
Gold 473 88 Dandelion House Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Roof Basketweave

This area has quite a few charming details, with quite a few thread changes :) A few tips about thread changes for small details:

  • You don't have to tie off between every tiny stitch, if you're using the same color. I am a pretty lazy stitcher, so I usually do not. I do all the stitches for a given color at once, and then tie off when I'm done. I'm just careful to leave enough yarn on the back so the canvas isn't getting distorted by pulling too tightly on the back. It should be just a tiny bit slack on the back
  • You don't have to start a thread with the waste knot method every single time. You can use existing stitches to bury the thread tails. On the back of the canvas, just slip a needle with unknotted thread through about 5 stitches, then bring it up through the front. Be careful not to pull too tightly on that first stitch in case your yarn slips out.

Start with the house, window, and door accents in Fawn using Continental.

Stitch the light accents on the roof in Cream using Continental. When you stitch the window frames and door, you should switch to Basketweave for better coverage on a light-colored area. If you want a little texture, you may want to stitch the dots on the roof using French Knots.

Fill the window panes in Salmon using Basketweave.

Work the main yellow color of the house in Gold using Basketweave.

Finally, stitch the roof in Black using Basketweave.

Sleigh

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Black 993 12 Black Sleigh Basketweave

Move above the roof to the black of Santa's sleigh. Stitch the sleigh in Black using Basketweave. You may have to work some Continental to get to the details. That's perfectly okay!

Name

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Name Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Name shadow Continental

You’re almost there! For the name, I actually change the order I stitch in.

I first stitch the lighter, main color of the name in Continental, using Bleach. Next, I stitch in the name accents (or shadows) in Gold, using Continental.

Here's a how-to video showing how I stitch our classic lettering style in Scarlet & Wine, but the same principles apply if you’re stitching a different colorway, or even a different font!

Deep Dive: Stitching Your Name →

I stitch one letter at a time and one color at a time. I tend to tie off between letters, just to keep everything super crisp. I think it’s especially important to do this if you’re stitching a name with a white background. It’s less important if you have a dark background behind the name because the thread tails are unlikely to show through. To keep things easy for myself, I just tie off between letters 🙂

Snow

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Snowflakes, snow on ground Continental

Work the snowflakes in Bleach using Continental. This is an area where I would not cut my thread tail between each snowflake. I would work on several that are close together, making sure to leave enough slack that the canvas doesn't bunch up.

Finally, stitch the snow on the ground in Bleach using Basketweave.

Pro tip! If you notice the yarn is looking thin, you might consider adding an extra strand for better coverage. You'll want to test this to make sure there's not a noticeable texture difference between two strands and three strands. It's easiest to do this at natural design breaks (like different elements in the illustration).

If you see a thin stitch only here or there, you can just go over it again with another stitch at the end.

Background

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Royal 823 101 Larkspur Sky Basketweave

You're almost finished! Fill the blue sky in Royal using Basketweave.

Deep Dive: Techniques

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How To: Stitch Your Name

How To: Stitch Your Name

Here’s a stitchalong video of how I generally stitch the names, first with the main color, then with the accent color, stitching one letter at-a-time.

Learn More
Decoding Tree Colors

Decoding Tree Colors

Sometimes it can be hard to differentiate the greens of trees. I use a lot of the same color combinations across designs. Here's a guide to help you decode which tree colors go where.

Learn More
All About Finishing

All About Finishing

As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art. 

Learn More

Frequently Asked Questions

Hopefully these answers help answer your questions! You can also check out our YouTube page or Back of Work blog for more tutorials.

If you're still feeling unsure and need a second pair of eyes, send an email to info@spider-spun.com with pictures (close-up pictures) of the front and the back of your stitching. I will do my very best to help!

  • This depends on the yarn you’re using. Our standard kits use Appletons crewel-weight yarn, so you need to use two strands. To do this, thread your needle and knot both of the ends together. Now you have doubled up your yarn and are stitching with two strands. If you’re using a thicker tapestry-weight yarn, like Silk & Ivory, you only need 1 strand.

    If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

  • You should look to the center point — or vertical intersection — your stitch will cross to determine the color. If you still can’t tell, pick the color you think looks best.

  • Make sure to check out the how-to guide for more on stitches, but I mostly use tent stitches for that classic needlepoint look. All these stitches look the same from the front, but have different levels of coverage on the back.

    • Half-Cross: Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again.
    • Continental: I like to use this stitch for any small areas. This stitch has medium coverage.
    • Basketweave: Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave is used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable.

    For detail stitches, especially accent lines, dots, or other tiny details, I break my Tent Stitch habits and embroider over the top of stitches. Some of my favorite stitches to use for this type of work are Stem Stitches and French Knots. Usually by this point, I’ve already stitched over the canvas design, so I use the reference image to estimate the right location.

  • It’s a great question, and one I get a lot. More often than not, there’s not enough stitches to fully encase the thread tails leading to the waste knot, so it can be unwise to clip the knot. The yarn may unravel. You can leave the waste knots to hang out on the front of the canvas until other stitching encases the thread tail leading up to the knot. It will be unsightly for now, but don’t worry about it! You’ll snip them off soon enough.

    You can also stitch a bunch of detail stitches using the same color all at once, so that you don't have to tie off between each one. I would just be careful to limit the thread tails criss-crossing the back to about one inch and be careful of very dark colors that are going to be surrounded by a field of white (like for names). Sometimes you will be able to see dark colors through the white yarn.

  • Dye plumps up fibers, so sometimes white yarn is a bit thinner. This is okay! Wool plumps up when it is blocked and finished. To make sure you get full coverage with white yarn, use Basketweave. If it’s still feeling thin, add another strand!

  • We must mark the edge of a white area, otherwise where would it end?! Stitch over the gray line with the light color next to the line, not gray. Usually, the gray line should be covered with a Cream, Natural, or Bleach yarn.

  • Waste rows are extra stitches around the edge of a design that disappear during the finishing process. If a design has no extra rows, some of the design may be lost when finished. You should ask your finisher about their preferences. If you plan to do your finishing with Spider Spun, we recommend stitching 1-2 waste rows around your project. Use the same color thread as your edge stitches. It’s just a little extension to allow for a seam allowance.

  • I’m a firm believer in the “finish first, edit later” approach to needlepoint. Most of the time, a stitch I thought looked terrible is not noticeable when looking at the end result.

    • If you must fix the stitch now and are only 5-6 stitches past the error, “unwind” the thread by pulling the needle off and using the tip to pick out the stitches out. If the yarn is in okay condition, keep stitching. If it’s gotten scraggly, end the thread and start anew.
    • If you’ve waited to fix your error, cut the offending stitch on the front of the canvas (just the yarn, not the canvas). Use the tip of your needle to unwind a few stitches to the right and the left of the cut. I lay the two ends across the now bare canvas and secure by starting a new thread and stitching over, like the method used to secure a waste knot.

  • You can try to use stitches to make the line a little longer or thicker so that you can stay consistent with stitch direction.
    However, I typically prioritize the drawing direction rather than stitch direction. In these instances (which are very rare), I’ll break the stitch pattern and follow the lines of the drawing in the opposite direction of all other stitches.

  • This is inevitable and totally normal. Don’t fret! Blocking should fix both of these problems (to some extent). During blocking, the fibers will be wet and can be reshaped and the canvas will be straightened out.

    However, there are a couple things you can do to prevent some distortion:

    • Use Basketweave stitch wherever humanly possible
    • Eliminating knots (and subsequent bumps) by using proper starting and ending techniques
    • Limiting canvas distortion by using frames or stretcher bars
    • Keeping thread tension consistent by using the same type and amount of thread throughout

  • As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art.

    After you’ve stitched your design, the raw canvas edges and loose threads need to be carefully secured and shaped so that the piece holds together and looks professional. Depending on the project, finishing can involve stretching and blocking the canvas, adding a backing, sewing it into items like stockings, pillows, ornaments, or even mounting it for framing.

    It can be expensive, but after all the stitch work you did, it’s worth the additional cost to get an object you treasure. You can read more about finishing here >

    Spider Spun does have finishing services! Reach out to us to talk through your ideas and get a quote.