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Overview

We’re so excited for you to start stitching one of our Christmas stockings! This is your stitch guide, which will serve as your road map as you work through this project. It is organized into sections so that you can easily navigate to exactly what you need.

Project Details

- Canvas Details: Interlock #13
- Needle Size: Bohin Tapestry #22
- Number of Colors: 17

I believe that anyone can stitch an heirloom and I believe that perfectly imperfect stitching is gorgeous. I include this illustration as a reminder that this is what the design will look like when you’ve finished stitching. So, if you ever get too obsessed with that single weird stitch, take a breath, look at this image, and think about the bigger picture.

Design Image

The Basics of Stitching

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The Basics of Stitching

Using the Right Number of Threads

For a 13-count canvas (which is what you have), I suggest knotting together these amounts:

  • 6-strand metallic: one strand
  • 2-ply crewel wool (like Appletons crewel wool): two strands
  • 4-ply tapestry yarn (like Silk & Ivory): one strand
  • 6-strand embroidery floss: one strand
  • No. 8 perle cotton: two strands

Note: Appletons 2-ply crewel wool is my favorite, and what I provide with most Spider Spun kits.

If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >


The Basics of Stitching

Choosing the Correct Color

If there is any doubt, like if there seems to be more than one color on an intersection, you should stitch with the color that is most prominent on that intersection. 


The Basics of Stitching

Starting A New Thread

Assuming you’re using two strands, thread a 30-ish inch length through the needle and knot the ends together. When knotted, it should be about the length from your hand to your elbow.

  1. Poke the needle through the front of the canvas about five holes away from where you’ll start stitching. There’s an ugly “waste knot” on the front of the canvas, but you’ll cut it off shortly.
  2. Bring the needle from the back of the canvas to the front at your starting point. There should be a half-inch of thread stretched across the back, connecting the waste knot to your first stitch. 
  3. Stitch toward the knot, encasing the thread tail. Once your stitches reach the waste knot, carefully snip it off from the front.
Tip icon
Pro Tip!

Once you get comfortable stitching and have a few more stitches on your canvas, you won’t need to knot your yarn every single time. You can just thread the needle and make sure the ends are even. Then, pull the needle through a few stitches on the back of the canvas (like how you would tie off a thread), and poke the needle up through the front where you want to begin stitching.


The Basics of Stitching

Ending A Thread

  1. When you have about three inches of thread left on the needle, take your needle to the back of the canvas.
  2. Insert the needle through five or so existing stitches, then pull taut. You may have noticed that this is the reverse of how you started the thread :)
  3. Snip the thread tail just outside the stitches. 

The Basics of Stitching

All About Tent Stitches

The most basic (and classic) needlepoint stitches are called “tent stitches.” Put simply, needlepoint is one diagonal stitch over each intersection of your canvas.

Tent stitches always slant from the lower left to the upper right, like this: /////

There are three types of tent stitches: Half-Cross Stitch, Continental Stitch, and Basketweave Stitch. All look the same from the front, but different on the back of the canvas. Each provides a different amount of structure and coverage.

You don’t have to stick to just one type of stitch for each project. In fact, most of my canvases are a mixture of all three types of tent stitches.

If you are lost in a specific area, you can pop over to the Stitch Guide section to see exactly which stitches I recommend.

Your Stitch Plan

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Your Stitch Plan

Order of Operations

If you’re wondering about which colors or stitches to use on a specific area, here is how I would approach stitching this design. This is certainly not the only way to do it, but if you’re looking at the canvas and wondering where to start, hopefully this helps.

Just remember, there are no needlepoint police — it’s totally okay if you don’t follow these rules. Stitch in a way that makes you happy :)

Design Image

Stitching by area of the canvas

I stitch by “area” of the canvas. Within each area, I first stitch the tiny details, then move on to the small and medium areas. At the very end of each section, I will fill in the larger sections, which are usually backgrounds. The big blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings.

My suggested order of operations

1. Skaters (outfit details, face and hands, hats and skates, clothing)
2. Dog
3. Carousel (wood details, horses, red roof, white roof, lights, backgrounds)
4. Market stalls (wood details, black wreaths/trees inside the stall, bunting, wreaths outside the stall, roof, lights, backgrounds)
5. Trees (details, lights, backgrounds)
6. Name
7. Background areas (light blue snow drifts, skating pond, white snow, night sky)

If you’re a beginner…

If you're a beginner, I recommend you practice your stitches a little first. On this canvas, I would start by trying out the Continental Stitch on the outfits of the skaters. Then, I would move on to trying out the Basketweave Stitch on a small area of the ice skating pond. Once you get confident with your stitching, you can move onto whichever area compels you.

Your Stitch Plan

Thread Color Key

Each yarn requires a different amount of strands. Please follow these guidelines to stitch your stocking:

  • Appletons crewel wool: stitch using 2 strands of yarn
  • Silk & Ivory: stitch using 1 strand of yarn
Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed • Skaters - Child and Sled: Lighter green color of hat and boots
• Trees - Olive Tree: Main color of lower left, second from left tree
• Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall: Yellow-green wreath (1x on left side)
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle • Trees - Forest Tree: Lighter green accents
• Trees - Fir Tree: Main color of lower left, first from left tree
• Skaters - Falling Skater: Hat
• Skaters - Child and Sled: Mid-green accent separating child's boots
Forest 298 232 Chutney • Trees - Forest Tree: Main color of rightmost tree on upper right
• Trees - Olive Tree: Darker green accents
• Trees - Fir Tree: Darker green accents
• Trees - Jade Tree: Darker green accents
• Skaters - Child and Sled: Darkest green color of hat and gloves
• Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall: Darkest green wreaths (2x)
Biscuit 301 225 Oats • Market Stalls - Smallest (Bottom) Market Stall: Mid-brown background of the bottom of market stall
• Market Stalls - Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall: Mid-brown background of the bottom of market stall
• Carousel: Mid-brown color of the background on the bottom of the carousel
• Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall copy: Mid-brown background of the bottom of market stall
• Skaters - Child and Sled: Sled rope
Fawn 304 228 Rye • Trees - Forest Tree: Tree trunks
• Trees - Jade Tree: Tree trunks
• Trees - Olive Tree: Tree trunks
• Market Stalls - Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall: Dark brown accents across the bottom of the market stall and the pole going top to bottom
• Skaters - Child and Sled: Sled
• Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall: Dark brown accents across the bottom of the market stall and the 3 poles going top to bottom
• Market Stalls - Smallest (Bottom) Market Stall: Dark brown accents
• Trees - Fir Tree: Tree trunks
• Skaters - Ballerina Skater: Hair / bun
• Carousel: Cross-hatching details across the bottom of the carousel and the four poles going from bottom to top (not the poles behind the horses)
Jade 402 84 Asparagus • Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall: Lighter green wreaths (2x)
• Trees - Jade Tree: Main color of leftmost tree on upper right of canvas
Gold 473 88 Dandelion • Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall copy: Icicle-like ornaments under the bunting
• Carousel: Lights across red and white top of carousel
• Name: Name shadow
• Market Stalls - Smallest (Bottom) Market Stall: Lights sprinkled across roof line
• Trees - Fir Tree: Tree lights
• Trees - Olive Tree: Tree lights
• Trees - Forest Tree: Tree lights
• Skaters - Child and Sled: Child's coat
• Trees - Jade Tree: Tree lights
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red • Skaters - Ballerina Skater: Skater's dress
• Dog: Dog's collar
• Carousel: Three white sections on the top of the carousel
Wine 505 44 Merlot • Skaters - Skater Pulling Sled: Details on coat and scarf
• Market Stalls - Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall: Icicle-like ornaments under the bunting
• Skaters - Falling Skater: Details on jacket
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Backgrounds - Blue Snowdrifts & Icy Pond: Light blue snowdrifts on the ground and the icy pond
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe • Skaters - Falling Skater: Falling skater's coat
• Market Stalls - Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall: Bunting under the roof eaves
Peach 701 190 Porcelain • Skaters - Ballerina Skater: Skintone
• Skaters - Child and Sled: Face
• Skaters - Falling Skater: Face
• Skaters - Skater Pulling Sled: Face and hands
Midnight 852 31 Midnight • Skaters - Falling Skater: Pants
• Backgrounds - Night Sky: Night sky
Coral 864 82 Pumpkin • Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall: Bunting under the roof eaves
• Skaters - Skater Pulling Sled: Coat
Putty 981 08 Taupe • Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall: Lightest brown/beige background in market stall windows
• Market Stalls - Smallest (Bottom) Market Stall: Lightest brown/beige background in market stall windows
• Carousel: Lightest brown (or beige) tone of carousel behind the horses
• Market Stalls - Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall: Lightest brown/beige background in market stall windows
Bleach 991B 02 White • Carousel: Two white sections on the top of the carousel
• Backgrounds - White Snow: Snow background
• Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall copy: Snow on roof tops
• Skaters - Ballerina Skater: Accents on skirt and skates
• Skaters - Skater Pulling Sled: Hat pompom and pants
• Skaters - Child and Sled: Jacket accent and pants
• Name: Name main color
• Market Stalls - Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall: Snow on roof
• Market Stalls - Smallest (Bottom) Market Stall: Snow on roof tops
Black 993 12 Black • Skaters - Skater Pulling Sled: Hat and skates
• Market Stalls - Smallest (Bottom) Market Stall: Tree shadows and roof
• Carousel: Horses and their poles
• Market Stalls - Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall copy: Roofs, wreath shadows (and their shelves), window accents (2x vertical lines)
• Market Stalls - Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall: Roof, horizontal line detail on the market stall window
• Skaters - Falling Skater: Skates and gloves
• Dog: Dog
• Skaters - Ballerina Skater: Blades on skates

Step-by-Step Stitch Guide

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Skaters

I suggest stitching one skater at a time, working on the details first, then moving on to the bigger pops of colors. The order in which you stitch them doesn't really matter. Just pick whichever strikes your fancy!

Skater Pulling Sled

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Wine 505 44 Merlot Details on coat and scarf Half-Cross
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Face and hands Continental
Black 993 12 Black Hat and skates Continental
Coral 864 82 Pumpkin Coat Basketweave
Bleach 991B 02 White Hat pompom and pants Continental

Start this skater by adding detail to the coat and scarf. For details on the coat, stitch in Wine using Half-Cross or Continental, whichever you're most comfortable with. Stitch the larger area of the scarf in Continental.

Next, fill in the face and hands in Peach using Continental.

For the hat and skates, switch to Black using Continental.

Stitch the skater's orange coat in Coral using Basketweave.

Finish up by stitching the hat's white pompom using Bleach in Continental. You should also stitch the pants in Bleach, but switch to Basketweave.

Pro tip! Any white area that is larger than an inch or so, should use Basketweave. White yarn can sometimes look thin because it’s not plumped by dye. If you notice the yarn is looking thin, you might consider adding an extra strand for better coverage. You'll want to test this to make sure there's not a noticeable texture difference between two strands and three strands. It's easiest to do this at natural design breaks (like different elements in the illustration). If you see a thin stitch only here or there, you can just go over it again with another stitch at the end.

Child and Sled

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Jacket accent and pants Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darkest green color of hat and gloves Continental
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Mid-green accent separating child's boots Half-Cross
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Face Continental
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Lighter green color of hat and boots Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Child's coat Basketweave
Biscuit 301 225 Oats Sled rope Continental
Fawn 304 228 Rye Sled Continental

I suggest stitching the child first, and then the sled. Begin by stitching the white jacket accent in Bleach using Continental. Then stitch the pants in Bleach using Basketweave.

Add the darkest green details to the hat and gloves with Forest in Continental.

For the small mid-green accent line between the boots, stitch in Fir using Half-Cross or Continental (whichever you're more comfortable with).

Fill in the face with Peach, using Continental.

For lighter, yellow green shade of the hat and boots, use Olive in Continental.

Finally, stitch the child's cheerful yellow coat in Gold using Basketweave stitch.

Now move onto the sled! Stitch the sled rope using Biscuit in Continental. For the darker brown body of the sled, work in Fawn using Continental.

Falling Skater

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Wine 505 44 Merlot Details on jacket Half-Cross
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Hat Continental
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Face Continental
Black 993 12 Black Skates and gloves Continental
Midnight 852 31 Midnight Pants Basketweave
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Falling skater's coat Basketweave

Start with the jacket details, stitching in Wine using either Half-Cross or Continental.

Stitch green the hat in Fir, using Continental.

Fill in the face with Peach using either Continental or Basketweave. Again, since Peach is a lighter color and this is a bit bigger of a face, you may want the extra coverage of Basketweave. But, Continental will technically be fine, too!

Stitch the skates and gloves in Black, using Continental.

Next work on the navy pants using Midnight in Basketweave.

Finally! Stitch the pink coat in Salmon using Basketweave.

Ballerina Skater

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fawn 304 228 Rye Hair / bun Continental
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Skintone Basketweave
Bleach 991B 02 White Accents on skirt and skates Continental
Black 993 12 Black Blades on skates Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Skater's dress Basketweave

You're almost finished with the skaters! We'll move on to the twirling skater. Work on her brunette bun in Fawn, using Continental.

Then, stitch the skintone in Peach using Basketweave.

The white accents on the skirt and skates are Bleach, using Continental stitch.

For the skate blades, use a little bit of Black in Continental.

Then, add a little pop of color by stitching the entire dress in Scarlet, using Basketweave stitch.


Dog

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Dog's collar Continental
Black 993 12 Black Dog Basketweave

Bop over to the little dog. For the dog's collar, use Scarlet in Continental stitch. Then, stitch the dog's black fur in Black using Basketweave.


Carousel

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Black 993 12 Black Horses and their poles Continental
Fawn 304 228 Rye Cross-hatching details across the bottom of the carousel and the four poles going from bottom to top (not the poles behind the horses) Continental
Biscuit 301 225 Oats Mid-brown color of the background on the bottom of the carousel Basketweave
Putty 981 08 Taupe Lightest brown (or beige) tone of carousel behind the horses Basketweave
Bleach 991B 02 White Two white sections on the top of the carousel Basketweave
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Three white sections on the top of the carousel Basketweave
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Lights across red and white top of carousel Continental

Start with the carousel horses and their poles using Black with Continental. If you prefer Basketweave for the horses, that works too!

For the dark brown cross-hatching at the botton of the carousel and the poles, use Fawn in Continental. Note that four of the poles go from the very bottom to the top of the red and white tent.

Fill in the bottom of the carousel with the mid-brown tone, using Biscuit in Basketweave.

Stitch in the lightest brown (or beige) in the background area behind the horses. Use Putty with Basketweave.

Let's move up to the punchy top of the carousel. Stitch the two white sections in Bleach, using Basketweave.

Then, switch to Scarlet in Basketweave for the three red sections, and the line along the edge.

Finally, stitch the twinkling lights along the edge in Gold using Continental. I wouldn't cut my thread tails between each of the lights. I would just bop around the canvas, making sure not to pull too tightly between the lights (more on this technique just below).


Market Stalls

The markets has quite a few charming details, with quite a few thread changes :) A few tips about thread changes for small details:

  • You don't have to tie off between every tiny stitch, if you're using the same color. I am a pretty lazy stitcher, so I usually do not. I do all the stitches for a given color at once, and then tie off when I'm done. I'm just careful to leave enough yarn on the back so the canvas isn't getting distorted by pulling too tightly on the back. It should be just a tiny bit slack on the back
  • You don't have to start a thread with the waste knot method every single time. You can use existing stitches to bury the thread tails. On the back of the canvas, just slip a needle with unknotted thread through about 5 stitches, then bring it up through the front. Be careful not to pull too tightly on that first stitch in case your yarn slips out.

Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall

Use Fawn in Continental for the dark brown details along the bottom and the three poles on this stall.

Work on the green wreaths hanging from this market. The single, yellow-green wreath uses Olive with Basketweave. The two lighter green wreaths use Jade in Basketweave. Finally, stitch the darkest green wreaths in Forest using Basketweave.

Hop over to the orange-y bunting under the eaves. Stich in Coral with Basketweave.

Next, work on yellow icicle-like ornaments, using Gold in Continental.

Move onto the white snow on the rooftops using Bleach in Basketweave.

Finally, we're going to fill things in. First work on the two vertical accent lines on the window using Black in Continental. Keep using Black for the wreath shadows and the roof, but switch to Basketweave.

Fill in the mid-brown background of the market stall's base, using Biscuit with Basketweave.

Finish the very light brown (or beige) window backgrounds with Putty in Basketweave.

Leftmost (Orange) Market Stall

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fawn 304 228 Rye Dark brown accents across the bottom of the market stall and the 3 poles going top to bottom Continental
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Yellow-green wreath (1x on left side) Basketweave
Jade 402 84 Asparagus Lighter green wreaths (2x) Basketweave
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darkest green wreaths (2x) Basketweave
Coral 864 82 Pumpkin Bunting under the roof eaves Basketweave
Putty 981 08 Taupe Lightest brown/beige background in market stall windows Basketweave

Use Fawn in Continental for the dark brown details along the bottom and the three poles on this stall.

Work on the green wreaths hanging from this market. The single, yellow-green wreath uses Olive with Basketweave. The two lighter green wreaths use Jade in Basketweave. Finally, stitch the darkest green wreaths in Forest using Basketweave.

Hop over to the orange-y bunting under the eaves. Stich in Coral with Basketweave.

Next, work on yellow icicle-like ornaments, using Gold in Continental.

Move onto the white snow on the rooftops using Bleach in Basketweave.

Finally, we're going to fill things in. First work on the two vertical accent lines on the window using Black in Continental. Keep using Black for the wreath shadows and the roof, but switch to Basketweave.

Fill in the mid-brown background of the market stall's base, using Biscuit with Basketweave.

Finish the very light brown (or beige) window backgrounds with Putty in Basketweave.

Rightmost (Pink) Market Stall

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fawn 304 228 Rye Dark brown accents across the bottom of the market stall and the pole going top to bottom Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Icicle-like ornaments under the bunting Continental
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Bunting under the roof eaves Basketweave
Bleach 991B 02 White Snow on roof Basketweave
Biscuit 301 225 Oats Mid-brown background of the bottom of market stall Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Roof, horizontal line detail on the market stall window Continental
Putty 981 08 Taupe Lightest brown/beige background in market stall windows Basketweave

Start with Fawn in Continental for the dark brown details along the bottom and the poles on this stall.

For the pink bunting under the eaves, use Salmon in Basketweave.

Stitch the dark red, icicle-like ornaments peeking out from under the bunting in Wine with Continental.

Move onto the white snow on the rooftops using Bleach in Basketweave.

Fill in the mid-brown background of the market stall's base, using Biscuit with Basketweave.

Stitch the horizontal accent lines on the window using Black in Continental. Keep using Black for the roof, but switch to Basketweave.

Finish this market stall by stitching with the very light brown (or beige) window background, using Putty in Basketweave.

Smallest (Bottom) Market Stall

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fawn 304 228 Rye Dark brown accents Continental
Bleach 991B 02 White Snow on roof tops Basketweave
Biscuit 301 225 Oats Mid-brown background of the bottom of market stall Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Tree shadows and roof Basketweave
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Lights sprinkled across roof line Continental
Putty 981 08 Taupe Lightest brown/beige background in market stall windows Basketweave

As with all the other stalls, start with the dark brown accents in Fawn, using Continental.

Stitch the snow on rooftop, using Bleach with Basketweave.

Next, work on the mid-brown background at the base of the stall, using Biscuit in Basketweave.

The dark tree shadows and roof use Black, and I recommend stitching them in Basketweave.

Add the yellow, twinkling lights at the roofline, using Gold in Continental.

Finish up the window background with Putty and Basketweave.


Trees

Sometimes it can be hard to differentiate the greens of trees. I use a lot of the same color combinations across designs, so that the illustrations hang together well. I've made a visual guide to help you decode which tree colors go where.

Deep Dive: Decoding Tree Colors

Fir Tree

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darker green accents Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Tree lights Continental
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree trunks Basketweave
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Main color of lower left, first from left tree Basketweave

This is the leftmost, mid-green tree at the lower left of the stocking. For mid-tone green tree, start with Forest for the details, using Continental. Work the lights using Gold in Continental. Next, use Fawn in Basketweave for the tree trunk. Finally, stitch the background in Fir, using Basketweave.

Olive Green Trees

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darker green accents Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Tree lights Continental
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree trunks Basketweave
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Main color of lower left, second from left tree Basketweave

This is the rightmost, yellowy green tree at the lower left of the stocking, behind the Fir tree. Stitch the accents of the tree with Forest, using Continental. Work the lights using Gold in Continental. Next, use Fawn in Basketweave for the tree trunk. The background (or main) color of the tree is Olive, which you’ll fill in using Basketweave.

Jade Green Trees

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darker green accents Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Tree lights Continental
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree trunks Continental
Jade 402 84 Asparagus Main color of leftmost tree on upper right of canvas Basketweave

This is the leftmost tree on the top right of the stocking. Start by stitching the details of this light green tree in Forest, using Continental. Work the lights using Gold in Continental. Next, use Fawn in Continental for the tree trunk. Finish by filling the main color in Jade using Basketweave.

Forest Green Trees

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Lighter green accents Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Tree lights Continental
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree trunks Basketweave
Forest 298 232 Chutney Main color of rightmost tree on upper right Basketweave

This is the darkest, rightmost tree at the top right of the stocking. Begin by stitching the lighter green details in Fir using Continental. Work the lights using Gold in Continental. Next, use Fawn in Basketweave for the tree trunk. Then, fill the rest with Forest in Basketweave.


Name

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Name main color Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Name shadow Continental

You’re almost there! For the name, I actually change the order I stitch in.

I first stitch the lighter, main color of the name in Continental, using Bleach. Next, I stitch in the name accents (or shadows) in Gold, using Continental.

Here's a how-to video showing how I stitch our classic lettering style in Scarlet & Wine, but the same principles apply if you’re stitching a different colorway, or even a different font!

Deep Dive: Stitching Your Name →

I stitch one letter at a time and one color at a time. I tend to tie off between letters, just to keep everything super crisp. I think it’s especially important to do this if you’re stitching a name with a white background. It’s less important if you have a dark background behind the name because the thread tails are unlikely to show through. To keep things easy for myself, I just tie off between letters 🙂


Backgrounds

The big, simple blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings. I think about it like filling in backgrounds after the details are completed.

Night Sky

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Midnight 852 31 Midnight Night sky Basketweave

For an inky night sky, use Midnight in Basketweave stitch. I really would stitch the night sky area AFTER all the details of the market stalls, as it can be hard to see the difference of the black roofs and the dark blue background.

Blue Snowdrifts & Icy Pond

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Light blue snowdrifts on the ground and the icy pond Basketweave

For light blue snowdrifts on the ground and, of course, the icy pond, use Robin's Egg in Basketweave stitch.

White Snow

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Snow background Basketweave

For snow background, use Bleach in Basketweave stitch. I cannot stress enough how much you need to use Basketweave for large backgrounds and white yarn. So for this white snow, Basketweave is a must!

Deep Dive: Techniques

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Frequently Asked Questions

Hopefully these answers help answer your questions! You can also check out our YouTube page or Back of Work blog for more tutorials.

If you're still feeling unsure and need a second pair of eyes, send an email to info@spider-spun.com with pictures (close-up pictures) of the front and the back of your stitching. I will do my very best to help!

  • This depends on the yarn you’re using. Our standard kits use Appletons crewel-weight yarn, so you need to use two strands. To do this, thread your needle and knot both of the ends together. Now you have doubled up your yarn and are stitching with two strands. If you’re using a thicker tapestry-weight yarn, like Silk & Ivory, you only need 1 strand.

    If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

  • You should look to the center point — or vertical intersection — your stitch will cross to determine the color. If you still can’t tell, pick the color you think looks best.

  • Make sure to check out the how-to guide for more on stitches, but I mostly use tent stitches for that classic needlepoint look. All these stitches look the same from the front, but have different levels of coverage on the back.

    • Half-Cross: Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again.
    • Continental: I like to use this stitch for any small areas. This stitch has medium coverage.
    • Basketweave: Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave is used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable.

    For detail stitches, especially accent lines, dots, or other tiny details, I break my Tent Stitch habits and embroider over the top of stitches. Some of my favorite stitches to use for this type of work are Stem Stitches and French Knots. Usually by this point, I’ve already stitched over the canvas design, so I use the reference image to estimate the right location.

  • It’s a great question, and one I get a lot. More often than not, there’s not enough stitches to fully encase the thread tails leading to the waste knot, so it can be unwise to clip the knot. The yarn may unravel. You can leave the waste knots to hang out on the front of the canvas until other stitching encases the thread tail leading up to the knot. It will be unsightly for now, but don’t worry about it! You’ll snip them off soon enough.

    You can also stitch a bunch of detail stitches using the same color all at once, so that you don't have to tie off between each one. I would just be careful to limit the thread tails criss-crossing the back to about one inch and be careful of very dark colors that are going to be surrounded by a field of white (like for names). Sometimes you will be able to see dark colors through the white yarn.

  • Dye plumps up fibers, so sometimes white yarn is a bit thinner. This is okay! Wool plumps up when it is blocked and finished. To make sure you get full coverage with white yarn, use Basketweave. If it’s still feeling thin, add another strand!

  • We must mark the edge of a white area, otherwise where would it end?! Stitch over the gray line with the light color next to the line, not gray. Usually, the gray line should be covered with a Cream, Natural, or Bleach yarn.

  • Waste rows are extra stitches around the edge of a design that disappear during the finishing process. If a design has no extra rows, some of the design may be lost when finished. You should ask your finisher about their preferences. If you plan to do your finishing with Spider Spun, we recommend stitching 1-2 waste rows around your project. Use the same color thread as your edge stitches. It’s just a little extension to allow for a seam allowance.

  • I’m a firm believer in the “finish first, edit later” approach to needlepoint. Most of the time, a stitch I thought looked terrible is not noticeable when looking at the end result.

    • If you must fix the stitch now and are only 5-6 stitches past the error, “unwind” the thread by pulling the needle off and using the tip to pick out the stitches out. If the yarn is in okay condition, keep stitching. If it’s gotten scraggly, end the thread and start anew.
    • If you’ve waited to fix your error, cut the offending stitch on the front of the canvas (just the yarn, not the canvas). Use the tip of your needle to unwind a few stitches to the right and the left of the cut. I lay the two ends across the now bare canvas and secure by starting a new thread and stitching over, like the method used to secure a waste knot.
  • You can try to use stitches to make the line a little longer or thicker so that you can stay consistent with stitch direction.
    However, I typically prioritize the drawing direction rather than stitch direction. In these instances (which are very rare), I’ll break the stitch pattern and follow the lines of the drawing in the opposite direction of all other stitches.

  • This is inevitable and totally normal. Don’t fret! Blocking should fix both of these problems (to some extent). During blocking, the fibers will be wet and can be reshaped and the canvas will be straightened out.

    However, there are a couple things you can do to prevent some distortion:

    • Use Basketweave stitch wherever humanly possible
    • Eliminating knots (and subsequent bumps) by using proper starting and ending techniques
    • Limiting canvas distortion by using frames or stretcher bars
    • Keeping thread tension consistent by using the same type and amount of thread throughout
  • As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art.

    After you’ve stitched your design, the raw canvas edges and loose threads need to be carefully secured and shaped so that the piece holds together and looks professional. Depending on the project, finishing can involve stretching and blocking the canvas, adding a backing, sewing it into items like stockings, pillows, ornaments, or even mounting it for framing.

    It can be expensive, but after all the stitch work you did, it’s worth the additional cost to get an object you treasure. You can read more about finishing here >

    Spider Spun does have finishing services! Reach out to us to talk through your ideas and get a quote.