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Overview

We’re so excited for you to start stitching one of our Christmas stockings! This is your stitch guide, which will serve as your road map as you work through this project. It is organized into sections so that you can easily navigate to exactly what you need.

Project Details

- Canvas Details: Interlock #13
- Needle Size: Bohin Tapestry #22
- Number of Colors: 13

I believe that anyone can stitch an heirloom and I believe that perfectly imperfect stitching is gorgeous. I include this illustration as a reminder that this is what the design will look like when you’ve finished stitching. So, if you ever get too obsessed with that single weird stitch, take a breath, look at this image, and think about the bigger picture.

Design Image

The Basics of Stitching

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The Basics of Stitching

Using the Right Number of Threads

For a 13-count canvas (which is what you have), I suggest knotting together these amounts:

  • 6-strand metallic: one strand
  • 2-ply crewel wool (like Appletons crewel wool): two strands
  • 4-ply tapestry yarn (like Silk & Ivory): one strand
  • 6-strand embroidery floss: one strand
  • No. 8 perle cotton: two strands

Note: Appletons 2-ply crewel wool is my favorite, and what I provide with most Spider Spun kits.

If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >


The Basics of Stitching

Choosing the Correct Color

If there is any doubt, like if there seems to be more than one color on an intersection, you should stitch with the color that is most prominent on that intersection. 


The Basics of Stitching

Starting A New Thread

Assuming you’re using two strands, thread a 30-ish inch length through the needle and knot the ends together. When knotted, it should be about the length from your hand to your elbow.

  1. Poke the needle through the front of the canvas about five holes away from where you’ll start stitching. There’s an ugly “waste knot” on the front of the canvas, but you’ll cut it off shortly.
  2. Bring the needle from the back of the canvas to the front at your starting point. There should be a half-inch of thread stretched across the back, connecting the waste knot to your first stitch. 
  3. Stitch toward the knot, encasing the thread tail. Once your stitches reach the waste knot, carefully snip it off from the front.
Tip icon
Pro Tip!

Once you get comfortable stitching and have a few more stitches on your canvas, you won’t need to knot your yarn every single time. You can just thread the needle and make sure the ends are even. Then, pull the needle through a few stitches on the back of the canvas (like how you would tie off a thread), and poke the needle up through the front where you want to begin stitching.


The Basics of Stitching

Ending A Thread

  1. When you have about three inches of thread left on the needle, take your needle to the back of the canvas.
  2. Insert the needle through five or so existing stitches, then pull taut. You may have noticed that this is the reverse of how you started the thread :)
  3. Snip the thread tail just outside the stitches. 

The Basics of Stitching

All About Tent Stitches

The most basic (and classic) needlepoint stitches are called “tent stitches.” Put simply, needlepoint is one diagonal stitch over each intersection of your canvas.

Tent stitches always slant from the lower left to the upper right, like this: /////

There are three types of tent stitches: Half-Cross Stitch, Continental Stitch, and Basketweave Stitch. All look the same from the front, but different on the back of the canvas. Each provides a different amount of structure and coverage.

You don’t have to stick to just one type of stitch for each project. In fact, most of my canvases are a mixture of all three types of tent stitches.

If you are lost in a specific area, you can pop over to the Stitch Guide section to see exactly which stitches I recommend.

Your Stitch Plan

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Your Stitch Plan

Order of Operations

If you’re wondering about which colors or stitches to use on a specific area, here is how I would approach stitching this design. This is certainly not the only way to do it, but if you’re looking at the canvas and wondering where to start, hopefully this helps.

Just remember, there are no needlepoint police — it’s totally okay if you don’t follow these rules. Stitch in a way that makes you happy :)

Design Image

Stitching by area of the canvas

I stitch by “area” of the canvas. Within each area, I first stitch the tiny details, then move on to the small and medium areas. At the very end of each section, I will fill in the larger sections, which are usually backgrounds. The big blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings.

My suggested order of operations

1. Nutcrackers, working one color at a time
2. Wreaths
3. Name
4. Background

If you’re a beginner…

If you're a beginner, I recommend you practice your stitches a little first. On this canvas, I would start by trying out the Continental Stitch on the rose colored pants of one of the nutcrackers. Then, I would move on to trying out the Basketweave Stitch on a small area of the background. Once you get confident with your stitching, you can move onto whichever area compels you.

Your Stitch Plan

Thread Color Key

Each yarn requires a different amount of strands. Please follow these guidelines to stitch your stocking:

  • Appletons crewel wool: stitch using 2 strands of yarn
  • Silk & Ivory: stitch using 1 strand of yarn
Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement
Rose 205 146 Guava • Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Pants: Pink solid pants
• Nutcrackers - Hats & Crowns: Hat details
• Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Jackets: Rose pink jacket details
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle • Name Area - Name: Lighter, main color of name
• Wreaths - Foliage: Mid-green leaves or branches
Forest 298 232 Chutney • Nutcrackers - Face & Facial Features: Dark green iris color, 1 stitch per eye
• Name Area - Name: Darker, accent color of name
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Drum: Dark green color of drum
Biscuit 301 225 Oats • Nutcrackers - Face & Facial Features: Nose
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Drum: Drumsticks
Gold 473 88 Dandelion • Wreaths - Berries: Lighter yellow berries
• Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Jackets: Gold jacket details
• Nutcrackers - Boots: Gold tops and buttons on boots
Amber 475 175 Nutmeg Dots: Darker yellow dots sprinkled across the background
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red • Nutcrackers - Accessories - Sword: White sword blade
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Gift: Red gift accent
• Nutcrackers - Face & Facial Features: Cheeks and mouth
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Drum: Red ends of drumsticks
• Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Pants: Red stripes on the red and white striped pants option, or the solid red pants
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Staff: Red top and end of staff
Wine 505 44 Merlot • Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Jackets: Dark red jacket background
• Nutcrackers - Hats & Crowns: Hat background
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Nutcrackers - Face & Facial Features: Skintone
Elephant 974 144 Truffle Nutcrackers - Hair & Beards: Eyebrows, mustache, beards, and hair
Natural 991 01 Natural Background: Background
Bleach 991B 02 White • Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Jackets: White jacket details
• Name Area - Nameplate: Nameplate
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Gift: White gift background
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Drum: White accents and drum top
• Nutcrackers - Boots: White highlights on boots
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Sword: Red hilt handle of sword
• Nutcrackers - Face & Facial Features: Whites of eyes, 2 stitches per eye
• Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Pants: White stripes on the red and white striped pants option
• Nutcrackers - Accessories - Staff: White staff
Black 993 12 Black • Nutcrackers - Boots: Background
• Nutcrackers - Uniforms - Jackets: Black jacket details

Step-by-Step Stitch Guide

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Nutcrackers

I like to start at either the top or bottom of a nutcracker and work my way in one direction. Since all the nutcrackers use the same colors and threads, you can either keep going with the same thread from one nutcracker to the next (make sure to cut and restart the thread for each one), or finish each nutcracker completely before moving onto the next. Carrying the same yarn from one nutcracker to the next with the same strand is too far.

Each nutcracker has quite a few charming details, with quite a few thread changes :) A few tips about thread changes for small details:

  • You don't have to tie off between every tiny stitch within the same nutcracker, if you're using the same color. I am a pretty lazy stitcher, so I usually do not. I do all the stitches for a given color at once, and then tie off when I'm done. I'm just careful to leave enough yarn on the back so the canvas isn't getting distorted by pulling too tightly on the back. It should be just a tiny bit slack on the back
  • You don't have to start a thread with the waste knot method every single time. You can use existing stitches to bury the thread tails. On the back of the canvas, just slip a needle with unknotted thread through about 5 stitches, then bring it up through the front. Be careful not to pull too tightly on that first stitch in case your yarn slips out.

Hats & Crowns

Begin at the top with the hat details, stitching in Rose using Continental.

For the hat background, use Wine in Basketweave.

Hats & Crowns

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Rose 205 146 Guava Hat details Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Hat background Basketweave

Begin at the top with the hat details, stitching in Rose using Continental.

For the hat background, use Wine in Basketweave.

Face & Facial Features

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested StitchSpecial Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Whites of eyes, 2 stitches per eye Half-Cross
Forest 298 232 Chutney Dark green iris color, 1 stitch per eye Half-CrossFrench Knots
Biscuit 301 225 Oats Nose Half-Cross
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Cheeks and mouth Continental
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Skintone Basketweave

Start with the whites of the eyes — just 2 stitches per eye in Bleach, using Half-Cross or Continental (whichever is easiest for you).

Next, add the dark green iris — 1 central, stitch per eye — in Forest using Half-Cross or Continental. If you're using Half-Cross, you may want to stitch each iris twice, so there's enough coverage.

If you want to take the stitching to the next level, you can use French Knots for the irises instead of the Half-Cross stitch. Honestly, there’s no need to decide now, you can stitch them in Half-Cross for the time being and come back in at the end and put French Knots over the Half-Cross stitches 🙂

For the nose, use Biscuit in Half-Cross or Continental.

Stitch the cheeks and mouth in Scarlet using Continental. Make sure to get the top lip and the bottom (if there is one).

Work the skintone in Peach with Basketweave. Because Peach is a light yarn, you'll benefit from the higher coverage of Basketweave. Make sure not to pick up any fibers from the existing stitches of the facial details.

Hair & Beards

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Elephant 974 144 Truffle Eyebrows, mustache, beards, and hair Continental

For the eyebrows and mustaches on the nutcracker faces, stitch using Elephant in Continental. This is an area where I wouldn't tie off between each section. Stitch the beards and hair, still using Elephant, but switch to Basketweave. FYI: The beards are the vertical rectangles under the mouths, exactly where nuts get cracked in the real versions of Nutcrackers.

Accessories - Gift

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red gift accent Continental
Bleach 991B 02 White White gift background Basketweave

Start the gift by stitching the red bow in Scarlet using Continental.

For the white gift background, use Bleach in Basketweave.

Accessories - Staff

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red top and end of staff Continental
Bleach 991B 02 White White staff Continental

For the red top and end of the staff, stitch in Scarlet using Continental.

For the white staff, use Bleach in Continental.

Accessories - Sword

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Red hilt handle of sword Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red White sword blade Continental

Stitch the red hilt handle of the sword in Bleach using Continental.

Work the white sword blade in Scarlet using Continental.

Accessories - Drum

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested StitchSpecial Stitch
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red ends of drumsticks Half-CrossFrench Knots
Biscuit 301 225 Oats Drumsticks Half-Cross
Bleach 991B 02 White White accents and drum top Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Dark green color of drum Continental

Start with the red ends of the drumsticks in Scarlet using Half-Cross or Continental. You can also use French Knots here!

The drumsticks themselves are Biscuit in Half-Cross or Continental.

For white accents and the drum top, use Bleach in Continental.

The dark green color of the drum gets stitched in Forest using Continental.

Uniforms - Jackets

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Rose 205 146 Guava Rose pink jacket details Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Gold jacket details Continental
Black 993 12 Black Black jacket details Continental
Bleach 991B 02 White White jacket details Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Dark red jacket background Basketweave

Stitch the rose pink jacket details in Rose using Continental.

Gold jacket details are worked in Gold using Continental.

For black jacket details, use Black in Continental.

White jacket details should be Bleach in Continental. Make sure to review the tent stitch section of the stitch guide if you want to learn how to stitch Continental vertically.

Finally, finish up the dark red jacket background using Wine in Basketweave.

Uniforms - Pants

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White White stripes on the red and white striped pants option Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red stripes on the red and white striped pants option, or the solid red pants Continental
Rose 205 146 Guava Pink solid pants Basketweave

There are three different options for the Nutcracker pants, which are mixed and matched across the canvas: 1) red and white striped, 2) solid red, 3) solid rose pink.

For white stripes on the red and white striped pants, use Bleach in Continental.

Stitch the red striped pants in Scarlet using Continental. Stitch the solid red pants in Scarlet, but switch to Basketweave.

The solid, rose pink pants get stitched in Rose with Basketweave.

Boots

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White White highlights on boots Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Gold tops and buttons on boots Continental
Black 993 12 Black Background Basketweave

For any white highlights on the boots, use Bleach and stitch in Continental.

For gold tops and all of the buttons, use Gold in Continental.

Stitch the boot background in Black using Basketweave.


Wreaths

Foliage

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Mid-green leaves or branches Basketweave

Stitch the mid-green leaves or branches in Fir using Basketweave. These branches are feathery, especially at the edges. It's easy to get carried away stitching. I wouldn't get too worked up if I missed a stitch here or there, or accidentally used the wrong color (like a berry, instead of a branch) in a place or two. Just make sure to go back at the end of your work to ensure all the intersections are covered.

Berries

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested StitchSpecial Stitch
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Lighter yellow berries Half-CrossFrench Knots

For the lighter yellow berries, use Gold in Half-Cross or Continental and add French Knots.

You can keep it simple with the expected tent stitches, or sprinkle some French Knots amongst the greenery if those don’t make you want to scream. You don't have to turn every single dot into a French Knot, maybe just pick a few that are only 1 stitch to embellish with a little texture.


Dots

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Amber 475 175 Nutmeg Darker yellow dots sprinkled across the background Continental

Stitch the darker yellow dots across the background in Amber using Continental. This is a place where I'd bury the thread tails for each instead of doing waste knots for every single one.


Name Area

Here's a how-to video showing how I stitch our classic lettering style in Scarlet & Wine, but the same principles apply if you’re stitching a different colorway, or even a different font!

Deep Dive: Stitching Your Name →

I stitch one letter at a time and one color at a time. I tend to tie off between letters, just to keep everything super crisp. I think it’s especially important to do this if you’re stitching a name with a white background. It’s less important if you have a dark background behind the name because the thread tails are unlikely to show through. To keep things easy for myself, I just tie off between letters 🙂

Name

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Lighter, main color of name Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darker, accent color of name Half-Cross

You’re almost there! For the name, I actually change the order I stitch in.

I first stitch the lighter green, main color of the name in Continental, using Fir. I keep every letter separate, without long, connecting thread tails. So I would start with a new knot for each letter and tie off each yarn when I’m finished with the letter. This probably isn’t totally necessary, but I want the name to be super crisp, with no chance of thread tails showing through the white name plate.

Finally, I fill in the darker green name accents using Half-Cross to add detail, using Forest.

Nameplate

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Nameplate Basketweave

After you stitch the name, you should fill in the nameplate background.

White yarn is notoriously thin — it’s because there’s no dye to thicken the fibers — so you must stitch in Basketweave. If your yarn is looking very thin, particularly with crewel wool, you may want to add another strand of yarn.


Background

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Natural 991 01 Natural Background Basketweave

You're almost finished! For a sturdy, long-lasting backdrop, stitch in Natural using Basketweave.

Deep Dive: Techniques

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Frequently Asked Questions

Hopefully these answers help answer your questions! You can also check out our YouTube page or Back of Work blog for more tutorials.

If you're still feeling unsure and need a second pair of eyes, send an email to info@spider-spun.com with pictures (close-up pictures) of the front and the back of your stitching. I will do my very best to help!

  • This depends on the yarn you’re using. Our standard kits use Appletons crewel-weight yarn, so you need to use two strands. To do this, thread your needle and knot both of the ends together. Now you have doubled up your yarn and are stitching with two strands. If you’re using a thicker tapestry-weight yarn, like Silk & Ivory, you only need 1 strand.

    If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

  • You should look to the center point — or vertical intersection — your stitch will cross to determine the color. If you still can’t tell, pick the color you think looks best.

  • Make sure to check out the how-to guide for more on stitches, but I mostly use tent stitches for that classic needlepoint look. All these stitches look the same from the front, but have different levels of coverage on the back.

    • Half-Cross: Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again.
    • Continental: I like to use this stitch for any small areas. This stitch has medium coverage.
    • Basketweave: Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave is used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable.

    For detail stitches, especially accent lines, dots, or other tiny details, I break my Tent Stitch habits and embroider over the top of stitches. Some of my favorite stitches to use for this type of work are Stem Stitches and French Knots. Usually by this point, I’ve already stitched over the canvas design, so I use the reference image to estimate the right location.

  • It’s a great question, and one I get a lot. More often than not, there’s not enough stitches to fully encase the thread tails leading to the waste knot, so it can be unwise to clip the knot. The yarn may unravel. You can leave the waste knots to hang out on the front of the canvas until other stitching encases the thread tail leading up to the knot. It will be unsightly for now, but don’t worry about it! You’ll snip them off soon enough.

    You can also stitch a bunch of detail stitches using the same color all at once, so that you don't have to tie off between each one. I would just be careful to limit the thread tails criss-crossing the back to about one inch and be careful of very dark colors that are going to be surrounded by a field of white (like for names). Sometimes you will be able to see dark colors through the white yarn.

  • Dye plumps up fibers, so sometimes white yarn is a bit thinner. This is okay! Wool plumps up when it is blocked and finished. To make sure you get full coverage with white yarn, use Basketweave. If it’s still feeling thin, add another strand!

  • We must mark the edge of a white area, otherwise where would it end?! Stitch over the gray line with the light color next to the line, not gray. Usually, the gray line should be covered with a Cream, Natural, or Bleach yarn.

  • Waste rows are extra stitches around the edge of a design that disappear during the finishing process. If a design has no extra rows, some of the design may be lost when finished. You should ask your finisher about their preferences. If you plan to do your finishing with Spider Spun, we recommend stitching 1-2 waste rows around your project. Use the same color thread as your edge stitches. It’s just a little extension to allow for a seam allowance.

  • I’m a firm believer in the “finish first, edit later” approach to needlepoint. Most of the time, a stitch I thought looked terrible is not noticeable when looking at the end result.

    • If you must fix the stitch now and are only 5-6 stitches past the error, “unwind” the thread by pulling the needle off and using the tip to pick out the stitches out. If the yarn is in okay condition, keep stitching. If it’s gotten scraggly, end the thread and start anew.
    • If you’ve waited to fix your error, cut the offending stitch on the front of the canvas (just the yarn, not the canvas). Use the tip of your needle to unwind a few stitches to the right and the left of the cut. I lay the two ends across the now bare canvas and secure by starting a new thread and stitching over, like the method used to secure a waste knot.
  • You can try to use stitches to make the line a little longer or thicker so that you can stay consistent with stitch direction.
    However, I typically prioritize the drawing direction rather than stitch direction. In these instances (which are very rare), I’ll break the stitch pattern and follow the lines of the drawing in the opposite direction of all other stitches.

  • This is inevitable and totally normal. Don’t fret! Blocking should fix both of these problems (to some extent). During blocking, the fibers will be wet and can be reshaped and the canvas will be straightened out.

    However, there are a couple things you can do to prevent some distortion:

    • Use Basketweave stitch wherever humanly possible
    • Eliminating knots (and subsequent bumps) by using proper starting and ending techniques
    • Limiting canvas distortion by using frames or stretcher bars
    • Keeping thread tension consistent by using the same type and amount of thread throughout
  • As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art.

    After you’ve stitched your design, the raw canvas edges and loose threads need to be carefully secured and shaped so that the piece holds together and looks professional. Depending on the project, finishing can involve stretching and blocking the canvas, adding a backing, sewing it into items like stockings, pillows, ornaments, or even mounting it for framing.

    It can be expensive, but after all the stitch work you did, it’s worth the additional cost to get an object you treasure. You can read more about finishing here >

    Spider Spun does have finishing services! Reach out to us to talk through your ideas and get a quote.