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Overview

We’re so excited for you to start stitching one of our Christmas stockings! This is your stitch guide, which will serve as your road map as you work through this project. It is organized into sections so that you can easily navigate to exactly what you need.

Project Details

- Canvas Details: Interlock #13
- Needle Size: Bohin Tapestry #22
- Number of Colors: 13

I believe that anyone can stitch an heirloom and I believe that perfectly imperfect stitching is gorgeous. I include this illustration as a reminder that this is what the design will look like when you’ve finished stitching. So, if you ever get too obsessed with that single weird stitch, take a breath, look at this image, and think about the bigger picture.

Design Image

The Basics of Stitching

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The Basics of Stitching

Using the Right Number of Threads

For a 13-count canvas (which is what you have), I suggest knotting together these amounts:

  • 6-strand metallic: one strand
  • 2-ply crewel wool (like Appletons crewel wool): two strands
  • 4-ply tapestry yarn (like Silk & Ivory): one strand
  • 6-strand embroidery floss: one strand
  • No. 8 perle cotton: two strands

Note: Appletons 2-ply crewel wool is my favorite, and what I provide with most Spider Spun kits.

If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >


The Basics of Stitching

Choosing the Correct Color

If there is any doubt, like if there seems to be more than one color on an intersection, you should stitch with the color that is most prominent on that intersection. 


The Basics of Stitching

Starting A New Thread

Assuming you’re using two strands, thread a 30-ish inch length through the needle and knot the ends together. When knotted, it should be about the length from your hand to your elbow.

  1. Poke the needle through the front of the canvas about five holes away from where you’ll start stitching. There’s an ugly “waste knot” on the front of the canvas, but you’ll cut it off shortly.
  2. Bring the needle from the back of the canvas to the front at your starting point. There should be a half-inch of thread stretched across the back, connecting the waste knot to your first stitch. 
  3. Stitch toward the knot, encasing the thread tail. Once your stitches reach the waste knot, carefully snip it off from the front.
Tip icon
Pro Tip!

Once you get comfortable stitching and have a few more stitches on your canvas, you won’t need to knot your yarn every single time. You can just thread the needle and make sure the ends are even. Then, pull the needle through a few stitches on the back of the canvas (like how you would tie off a thread), and poke the needle up through the front where you want to begin stitching.


The Basics of Stitching

Ending A Thread

  1. When you have about three inches of thread left on the needle, take your needle to the back of the canvas.
  2. Insert the needle through five or so existing stitches, then pull taut. You may have noticed that this is the reverse of how you started the thread :)
  3. Snip the thread tail just outside the stitches. 

The Basics of Stitching

All About Tent Stitches

The most basic (and classic) needlepoint stitches are called “tent stitches.” Put simply, needlepoint is one diagonal stitch over each intersection of your canvas.

Tent stitches always slant from the lower left to the upper right, like this: /////

There are three types of tent stitches: Half-Cross Stitch, Continental Stitch, and Basketweave Stitch. All look the same from the front, but different on the back of the canvas. Each provides a different amount of structure and coverage.

You don’t have to stick to just one type of stitch for each project. In fact, most of my canvases are a mixture of all three types of tent stitches.

If you are lost in a specific area, you can pop over to the Stitch Guide section to see exactly which stitches I recommend.

Your Stitch Plan

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Your Stitch Plan

Order of Operations

If you’re wondering about which colors or stitches to use on a specific area, here is how I would approach stitching this design. This is certainly not the only way to do it, but if you’re looking at the canvas and wondering where to start, hopefully this helps.

Just remember, there are no needlepoint police — it’s totally okay if you don’t follow these rules. Stitch in a way that makes you happy :)

Design Image

Stitching by area of the canvas

I stitch by “area” of the canvas. Within each area, I first stitch the tiny details, then move on to the small and medium areas. At the very end of each section, I will fill in the larger sections, which are usually backgrounds. The big blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings.

My suggested order of operations

1. Blue bell ornament
2. Salmon diamond ornament
3. Ball ornament with the star
4. Red striped ornament
5. Green striped ball ornament
6. Salmon and gold curved ornament
7. Tree branches
8. Name
9. Background

If you’re a beginner…

If you're a beginner, I recommend you practice your stitches a little first. On this canvas, I would start by trying out the Continental Stitch on the blue stripes of the bottom left ornament. Then, I would move on to trying out the Basketweave Stitch on the gray area of the same ornament. Once you get confident with your stitching, you can move onto whichever area compels you.

Your Stitch Plan

Thread Color Key

Each yarn requires a different amount of strands. Please follow these guidelines to stitch your stocking:

  • Appletons crewel wool: stitch using 2 strands of yarn
  • Silk & Ivory: stitch using 1 strand of yarn
Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Tree Branches - Branches: Lightest tone on branches
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Green Striped Ball Ornament: Darkest green tone
Forest 298 232 Chutney • Background: Background
• Name Area - Name: Name accents
Mint 353 182 Killarney • Ball Ornament with Star: Ornament accents
• Green Striped Ball Ornament: Lightest green tone
Jade 402 84 Asparagus • Tree Branches - Branches: Mid tone on branches
• Name Area - Name: Name main color
Gold 473 88 Dandelion • Salmon and Gold Curved Ornament: Accents on middle area
• Ball Ornament with Star: Background color around star
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red • Ball Ornament with Star: Red accents around star
• Red Striped Ornament: Red accents
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl • Blue Striped Bell Ornament: Light blue accents
• Ball Ornament with Star: Light blue accents
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe • Salmon Diamond Ornament: Ornament accents
• Salmon and Gold Curved Ornament: Accents
• Ball Ornament with Star: Background color behind star
Royal 823 101 Larkspur Blue Striped Bell Ornament: Dark blue accents
Dove 971 205 Dolphin • Salmon and Gold Curved Ornament: Ornament background color
• Ball Ornament with Star: Ornament background color
• Green Striped Ball Ornament: Ornament background color
• Salmon Diamond Ornament: Ornament background color
• Blue Striped Bell Ornament: Ornament background color
• Red Striped Ornament: Ornament background color
Bleach 991B 02 White • Name Area - Nameplate: Nameplate
• Salmon and Gold Curved Ornament: Highlights
• Salmon Diamond Ornament: Highlights
• Blue Striped Bell Ornament: Highlights
• Green Striped Ball Ornament: Highlights
• Red Striped Ornament: Highlights
• Ball Ornament with Star: Highlights
Black 993 12 Black • Salmon Diamond Ornament: Ornament outlines and caps
• Tree Branches - Branches: Darkest tone on branches
• Salmon and Gold Curved Ornament: Ornament outlines and caps
• Red Striped Ornament: Ornament outlines and caps
• Blue Striped Bell Ornament: Ornament outlines and caps
• Ball Ornament with Star: Ornament outlines and caps
• Green Striped Ball Ornament: Ornament outlines and caps

Step-by-Step Stitch Guide

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Blue Striped Bell Ornament

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Highlights Continental
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Light blue accents Basketweave
Royal 823 101 Larkspur Dark blue accents Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Ornament outlines and caps Continental
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Ornament background color Basketweave

Start on the bottom left of the canvas with the the white ornament highlights. Stitch in Bleach using Continental or Basketweave stitches. I personally use Continental on the smaller sections, and Basketweave on the white stripes.

For the light blue stripes, stitch in Robin's Egg using Basketweave stitch.

For the dark blue stripes, use Royal with Basketweave stitch.

Move onto the ornament outline details. Stitch in Black using Continental. For the ornament caps, keep using Black, but think about switching to Basketweave.

For the silvery ornament background color, use Dove with Basketweave stitch.


Salmon Diamond Ornament

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Highlights Continental
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Ornament accents Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Ornament outlines and caps Continental
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Ornament background color Basketweave

Stay near the bottom of the canvas, but shift to the center to stitch the salmon diamond ornament. Again, start with the highlights, using Bleach with Continental stitch.

For the splashes of pink, use Salmon with Basketweave stitch.

Move onto the ornament outline details, stitching in Black with Continental. For the ornament caps, use Black with Basketweave.

Finish up with the the ornament background color, using Dove with Basketweave stitch.


Ball Ornament with Star

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Highlights Continental
Mint 353 182 Killarney Ornament accents Basketweave
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Light blue accents Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Ornament outlines and caps Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red accents around star Continental
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Background color behind star Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Background color around star Basketweave
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Ornament background color Basketweave

For the rightmost ornament on the toe of the stocking, we'll (again) start the highlights, using Bleach with Continental stitch.

For the light green stripe, use Mint with Basketweave stitch.

Next, work the light blue stripe, stitching in Robin's Egg with Basketweave stitch.

Move to the ornament outline details, stitching in Black using Continental. For the ornament caps, use Black with Basketweave.

Next, we'll move to the center section of the ornament, anchored by the black star outline. Stich the red accents around the star, using Scarlet with Continental stitch.

For the pink background color behind the star, use Salmon with Continental stitch.

Finish up this starry area with the yellow background color around the star, using Gold with Basketweave stitch.

Finally stitch the silver ornament background color, using Dove with Basketweave stitch.


Red Striped Ornament

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Highlights Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red accents Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Ornament outlines and caps Continental
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Ornament background color Basketweave

Move on to the true center of the canvas, to the red striped ornament. For the highlights, use Bleach with Continental or Basketweave stitches. I would use Basketweave on the large white, triangular section on the top right of the ornament.

Next, work on the red accents, using Scarlet with Basketweave stitch.

For ornament outline details, stitch in Black using Continental. For the ornament caps, use Black with Basketweave.

Finish up with the silvery ornament background color. Use Dove with Basketweave stitch.


Green Striped Ball Ornament

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Highlights Continental
Black 993 12 Black Ornament outlines and caps Continental
Mint 353 182 Killarney Lightest green tone Basketweave
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Darkest green tone Basketweave
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Ornament background color Basketweave

At the top left of the canvas is the green striped ball ornament. No surprises here! For the highlights, use Bleach with Continental stitch.

For the ornament outline details, stitch in Black using Continental. For the ornament caps, use Black with Basketweave.

For lightest green tone, use Mint stitching in Basketweave.

For darker green tone, use Fir with Basketweave stitch.

Finish up with the few sections of the silver ornament background color, using Dove with Basketweave stitch.


Salmon and Gold Curved Ornament

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Highlights Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Accents on middle area Basketweave
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Accents Basketweave
Black 993 12 Black Ornament outlines and caps Continental
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Ornament background color Basketweave

Finally, finish up the ornaments by moving to the top right of the canvas for the curvy salmon and gold ornament. Work the white highlights, using Bleach with Continental or Basketweave stitches. Much like the first ornament, I use Continental on the smaller sections, and Basketweave on the white stripes.

For the large yellow stripe in the center of the ornament, use Gold with Basketweave stitch.

For the smaller pink stripes, use Salmon with Basketweave stitch.

For ornament outline details, stitch in Black using Continental. For the ornament caps, use Black with Basketweave.

You're almost finished with all of the ornaments! For the silver background color, stitch with Dove using Basketweave stitch.


Tree Branches

You may find yourself wanting to completely stitch one branch at a time using all three colors. Or you may want to stitch all of the Olive sections, then all of the Jade, etc. Neither way is right or wrong. I actually did a bit of both when stitching this stocking!

These branches are feathery, especially at the edges. It's easy to get carried away with stitching one color and encroach a little on another. I wouldn't get too worked up if I missed a stitch here or there, or accidentally used the wrong color in a place or two. Just make sure to go back at the end of your work to ensure all the intersections are covered.

I often find it's hardest to see the difference between shades of green. For that reason, I always stitch one of the lighter green tones first to make it easier to see for myself. For the lightest, yellowy-green tone on branches, use Olive with Basketweave stitch. This color is in the center of each of the branches.

Follow-up with the mid-green tone that surrounds the Olive green color. Use Jade with Basketweave stitch.

Finally, fill in darkest section of the branch backgrounds. Use Black with Basketweave stitch.


Name Area

Here's a how-to video showing how I stitch our classic lettering style in Scarlet & Wine, but the same principles apply if you’re stitching a different colorway, or even a different font!

Deep Dive: Stitching Your Name >

I stitch one letter at a time and one color at a time. I tend to tie off between letters, just to keep everything super crisp. I think it’s especially important to do this if you’re stitching a name with a white background. It’s less important if you have a dark background behind the name because the thread tails are unlikely to show through. To keep things easy for myself, I just tie off between letters 🙂

Name

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Jade 402 84 Asparagus Name main color Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Name accents Half-Cross

You’re almost there! For the name, I actually change the order I stitch in.

I first stitch the lighter green, main color of the name in Continental, using Jade. I keep every letter separate, without long, connecting thread tails. So I would start with a new knot for each letter and tie off each yarn when I’m finished with the letter. This probably isn’t totally necessary, but I want the name to be super crisp, with no chance of thread tails showing through the white name plate.

Finally, I fill in the darker green name accents using Half-Cross to add detail, using Forest.

Nameplate

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Nameplate Basketweave

After you stitch the name, you should fill in the nameplate background.

White yarn is notoriously thin — it’s because there’s no dye to thicken the fibers — so you must stitch in Basketweave. If your yarn is looking very thin, particularly with crewel wool, you may want to add another strand of yarn.


Background

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Forest 298 232 Chutney Background Basketweave

You're almost finished! For the background, stitch in Forest using Basketweave stitch. I really would stitch the background last as it can be hard to see the difference of the black branches and the dark green background unless you do the branches first.

Deep Dive: Techniques

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Frequently Asked Questions

Hopefully these answers help answer your questions! You can also check out our YouTube page or Back of Work blog for more tutorials.

If you're still feeling unsure and need a second pair of eyes, send an email to info@spider-spun.com with pictures (close-up pictures) of the front and the back of your stitching. I will do my very best to help!

  • This depends on the yarn you’re using. Our standard kits use Appletons crewel-weight yarn, so you need to use two strands. To do this, thread your needle and knot both of the ends together. Now you have doubled up your yarn and are stitching with two strands. If you’re using a thicker tapestry-weight yarn, like Silk & Ivory, you only need 1 strand.

    If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

  • You should look to the center point — or vertical intersection — your stitch will cross to determine the color. If you still can’t tell, pick the color you think looks best.

  • Make sure to check out the how-to guide for more on stitches, but I mostly use tent stitches for that classic needlepoint look. All these stitches look the same from the front, but have different levels of coverage on the back.

    • Half-Cross: Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again.
    • Continental: I like to use this stitch for any small areas. This stitch has medium coverage.
    • Basketweave: Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave is used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable.

    For detail stitches, especially accent lines, dots, or other tiny details, I break my Tent Stitch habits and embroider over the top of stitches. Some of my favorite stitches to use for this type of work are Stem Stitches and French Knots. Usually by this point, I’ve already stitched over the canvas design, so I use the reference image to estimate the right location.

  • It’s a great question, and one I get a lot. More often than not, there’s not enough stitches to fully encase the thread tails leading to the waste knot, so it can be unwise to clip the knot. The yarn may unravel. You can leave the waste knots to hang out on the front of the canvas until other stitching encases the thread tail leading up to the knot. It will be unsightly for now, but don’t worry about it! You’ll snip them off soon enough.

    You can also stitch a bunch of detail stitches using the same color all at once, so that you don't have to tie off between each one. I would just be careful to limit the thread tails criss-crossing the back to about one inch and be careful of very dark colors that are going to be surrounded by a field of white (like for names). Sometimes you will be able to see dark colors through the white yarn.

  • Dye plumps up fibers, so sometimes white yarn is a bit thinner. This is okay! Wool plumps up when it is blocked and finished. To make sure you get full coverage with white yarn, use Basketweave. If it’s still feeling thin, add another strand!

  • We must mark the edge of a white area, otherwise where would it end?! Stitch over the gray line with the light color next to the line, not gray. Usually, the gray line should be covered with a Cream, Natural, or Bleach yarn.

  • Waste rows are extra stitches around the edge of a design that disappear during the finishing process. If a design has no extra rows, some of the design may be lost when finished. You should ask your finisher about their preferences. If you plan to do your finishing with Spider Spun, we recommend stitching 1-2 waste rows around your project. Use the same color thread as your edge stitches. It’s just a little extension to allow for a seam allowance.

  • I’m a firm believer in the “finish first, edit later” approach to needlepoint. Most of the time, a stitch I thought looked terrible is not noticeable when looking at the end result.

    • If you must fix the stitch now and are only 5-6 stitches past the error, “unwind” the thread by pulling the needle off and using the tip to pick out the stitches out. If the yarn is in okay condition, keep stitching. If it’s gotten scraggly, end the thread and start anew.
    • If you’ve waited to fix your error, cut the offending stitch on the front of the canvas (just the yarn, not the canvas). Use the tip of your needle to unwind a few stitches to the right and the left of the cut. I lay the two ends across the now bare canvas and secure by starting a new thread and stitching over, like the method used to secure a waste knot.
  • You can try to use stitches to make the line a little longer or thicker so that you can stay consistent with stitch direction.
    However, I typically prioritize the drawing direction rather than stitch direction. In these instances (which are very rare), I’ll break the stitch pattern and follow the lines of the drawing in the opposite direction of all other stitches.

  • This is inevitable and totally normal. Don’t fret! Blocking should fix both of these problems (to some extent). During blocking, the fibers will be wet and can be reshaped and the canvas will be straightened out.

    However, there are a couple things you can do to prevent some distortion:

    • Use Basketweave stitch wherever humanly possible
    • Eliminating knots (and subsequent bumps) by using proper starting and ending techniques
    • Limiting canvas distortion by using frames or stretcher bars
    • Keeping thread tension consistent by using the same type and amount of thread throughout
  • As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art.

    After you’ve stitched your design, the raw canvas edges and loose threads need to be carefully secured and shaped so that the piece holds together and looks professional. Depending on the project, finishing can involve stretching and blocking the canvas, adding a backing, sewing it into items like stockings, pillows, ornaments, or even mounting it for framing.

    It can be expensive, but after all the stitch work you did, it’s worth the additional cost to get an object you treasure. You can read more about finishing here >

    Spider Spun does have finishing services! Reach out to us to talk through your ideas and get a quote.