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Overview

We’re so excited for you to start stitching one of our Christmas stockings! This is your stitch guide, which will serve as your road map as you work through this project. It is organized into sections so that you can easily navigate to exactly what you need.

Project Details

- Canvas Details: Interlock #13
- Needle Size: Bohin Tapestry #22
- Number of Colors: 17

I believe that anyone can stitch an heirloom and I believe that perfectly imperfect stitching is gorgeous. I include this illustration as a reminder that this is what the design will look like when you’ve finished stitching. So, if you ever get too obsessed with that single weird stitch, take a breath, look at this image, and think about the bigger picture.

Design Image

The Basics of Stitching

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The Basics of Stitching

Using the Right Number of Threads

For a 13-count canvas (which is what you have), I suggest knotting together these amounts:

  • 6-strand metallic: one strand
  • 2-ply crewel wool (like Appletons crewel wool): two strands
  • 4-ply tapestry yarn (like Silk & Ivory): one strand
  • 6-strand embroidery floss: one strand
  • No. 8 perle cotton: two strands

Note: Appletons 2-ply crewel wool is my favorite, and what I provide with most Spider Spun kits.

If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >


The Basics of Stitching

Choosing the Correct Color

If there is any doubt, like if there seems to be more than one color on an intersection, you should stitch with the color that is most prominent on that intersection. 


The Basics of Stitching

Starting A New Thread

Assuming you’re using two strands, thread a 30-ish inch length through the needle and knot the ends together. When knotted, it should be about the length from your hand to your elbow.

  1. Poke the needle through the front of the canvas about five holes away from where you’ll start stitching. There’s an ugly “waste knot” on the front of the canvas, but you’ll cut it off shortly.
  2. Bring the needle from the back of the canvas to the front at your starting point. There should be a half-inch of thread stretched across the back, connecting the waste knot to your first stitch. 
  3. Stitch toward the knot, encasing the thread tail. Once your stitches reach the waste knot, carefully snip it off from the front.
Tip icon
Pro Tip!

Once you get comfortable stitching and have a few more stitches on your canvas, you won’t need to knot your yarn every single time. You can just thread the needle and make sure the ends are even. Then, pull the needle through a few stitches on the back of the canvas (like how you would tie off a thread), and poke the needle up through the front where you want to begin stitching.


The Basics of Stitching

Ending A Thread

  1. When you have about three inches of thread left on the needle, take your needle to the back of the canvas.
  2. Insert the needle through five or so existing stitches, then pull taut. You may have noticed that this is the reverse of how you started the thread :)
  3. Snip the thread tail just outside the stitches. 

The Basics of Stitching

All About Tent Stitches

The most basic (and classic) needlepoint stitches are called “tent stitches.” Put simply, needlepoint is one diagonal stitch over each intersection of your canvas.

Tent stitches always slant from the lower left to the upper right, like this: /////

There are three types of tent stitches: Half-Cross Stitch, Continental Stitch, and Basketweave Stitch. All look the same from the front, but different on the back of the canvas. Each provides a different amount of structure and coverage.

You don’t have to stick to just one type of stitch for each project. In fact, most of my canvases are a mixture of all three types of tent stitches.

If you are lost in a specific area, you can pop over to the Stitch Guide section to see exactly which stitches I recommend.

Your Stitch Plan

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Your Stitch Plan

Order of Operations

If you’re wondering about which colors or stitches to use on a specific area, here is how I would approach stitching this design. This is certainly not the only way to do it, but if you’re looking at the canvas and wondering where to start, hopefully this helps.

Just remember, there are no needlepoint police — it’s totally okay if you don’t follow these rules. Stitch in a way that makes you happy :)

Design Image

Stitching by area of the canvas

I stitch by “area” of the canvas. Within each area, I first stitch the tiny details, then move on to the small and medium areas. At the very end of each section, I will fill in the larger sections, which are usually backgrounds. The big blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings.

My suggested order of operations

1. Ski hut (details, window and door, chimney and smoke, stairs, hut background, snow on roof)
2. Skiers
3. Trees
4. Name
5. Simple areas (white snow, mountains, light blue background)

If you’re a beginner…

If you're a beginner, I recommend you practice your stitches a little first. On this canvas, I would start by trying out the Continental Stitch on the brown stairs of the ski hut. Then, I would move on to trying out the Basketweave Stitch on a small area of blue snowy background. Once you get confident with your stitching, you can move onto whichever area compels you.

Your Stitch Plan

Thread Color Key

Each yarn requires a different amount of strands. Please follow these guidelines to stitch your stocking:

  • Appletons crewel wool: stitch using 2 strands of yarn
  • Silk & Ivory: stitch using 1 strand of yarn
Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Trees - Olive Green Trees: Tree on lower left, middle right, and top right
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle • Ski Hut: Garland mid tone, wreath darkest tone
• Trees - Fir Green Trees: Tree behind hut, middle, upper left, and top right
• Trees - Jade Green Trees: Accents on Jade colored trees
• Trees - Olive Green Trees: Accents on Olive colored trees
Forest 298 232 Chutney • Trees - Forest Green Trees: Darkest colored trees on upper right, middle right, lower left
• Trees - Fir Green Trees: Accents on mid-tone green trees
Fawn 304 228 Rye • Ski Hut: Front steps
• Trees - Tree Trunks: Tree trunks
Jade 402 84 Asparagus • Ski Hut: Garland and wreath lightest tone
• Trees - Jade Green Trees: Tree on middle, upper left, and upper right
Gold 473 88 Dandelion • Ski Hut: Lights, doorknob
• Skiers - Yellow (Top) Skier: Ski jacket
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red • Ski Hut: Hut main color
• Name: Name main color
Wine 505 44 Merlot • Ski Hut: Hut accents and wreath bow
• Name: Name accents
• Skiers - Bottom (Orange) Skier: Coat accents
• Skiers - Salmon (Middle) Skier: Scarf, coat accents
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Backgrounds - Blue Snow Drifts: Sky and snow on ground
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Skiers - Salmon (Middle) Skier: Ski jacket
Peach 701 190 Porcelain • Skiers - Yellow (Top) Skier: Skintone
• Skiers - Bottom (Orange) Skier: Skintone
• Skiers - Salmon (Middle) Skier: Skintone
Coral 864 82 Pumpkin Skiers - Bottom (Orange) Skier: Ski jacket
Iron 967 219 Onyx • Mountains: Darkest mountains
• Skiers - Salmon (Middle) Skier: Pants
• Skiers - Yellow (Top) Skier: Pants
Dove 971 205 Dolphin • Skiers - Bottom (Orange) Skier: Pants
• Skiers - Yellow (Top) Skier: Ski poles, skis; coat accent
• Ski Hut: Door & windows accents (Continental); chimney smoke (Basketweave)
• Mountains: Lightest mountains
Elephant 974 144 Truffle • Mountains: Mid-tone mountains
• Skiers - Bottom (Orange) Skier: Skis, pants accents
• Skiers - Salmon (Middle) Skier: Skis
Bleach 991B 02 White • Mountains: Snow on mountains
• Backgrounds - White Snow: Snow on ground
Black 993 12 Black • Skiers - Salmon (Middle) Skier: Hat, ski poles, gloves, shoes
• Ski Hut: Roof line or eaves (Continental); windows, chimney (Basketweave)
• Skiers - Bottom (Orange) Skier: Hat, ski poles, gloves, shoes
• Trees - Forest Green Trees: Accents on darkest colored trees
• Skiers - Yellow (Top) Skier: Gloves and shoes

Step-by-Step Stitch Guide

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Ski Hut

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Wine 505 44 Merlot Hut accents and wreath bow Continental
Fawn 304 228 Rye Front steps Continental
Jade 402 84 Asparagus Garland and wreath lightest tone Continental
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Garland mid tone, wreath darkest tone Continental
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Door & windows accents (Continental); chimney smoke (Basketweave) Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Lights, doorknob Continental
Black 993 12 Black Roof line or eaves (Continental); windows, chimney (Basketweave) Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Hut main color Basketweave

Let’s start with the Ski Hut itself, working through the details before filling in the main color blocks.

I’d begin by picking up Wine and using the Continental stitch to lay in the hut accents, like the darker vertical detail lines on the hut and the wreath bow.

For the front steps, work in Fawn using Basketweave.

To bring dimension to the garland and wreath, first work with Jade for the lightest tone, using Continental. Use Fir for the mid-tone of the garland and the darkest tone of the wreath, both in Continental. Finish up the garland in Forest, using Continental. It may seem like a lot of work, but that little flick of darker green gives the garland movement and life.

Now, for those details around the doors and windows, use Dove in Continental. Finish up with the Dove by stitching the chimney smoke in Basketweave.

The tiniest details, like the doorknob and festive lights, are a pop of color. Work in Gold using Continental or Half-Cross, whichever you find easiest for those tiny spaces. I would not cut my yarn between the lights, just make sure not to pull too tightly to avoid skewing the canvas.

Tidy up the roofline and eaves with Black, using Continental. Keep using Black, but switch to Basketweave for broader chimney pipe and window backgrounds.

With all of these elements in place, fill the hut’s main color with Scarlet using a smooth Basketweave. This helps anchor the building and makes those earlier details really shine.


Skiers

Yellow (Top) Skier

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Ski poles, skis; coat accent Continental
Black 993 12 Black Gloves and shoes Continental
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Skintone Continental
Iron 967 219 Onyx Pants Basketweave
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Ski jacket Basketweave

On to the top skier - a bright spot flying down the hill! I’d tackle the little details first: the ski poles, skis, and coat accent all stitched in Dove. Next, work Black in around the gloves and shoes. The skintone should feel gentle and warm, so Peach brings out lifelike softness. All of these tiny areas should be stitched using Continental.

The skier's pants come next. Stitch in Iron, using Basketweave. Finish up with that punchy yellow ski jacket in Gold, worked in Basketweave.

Salmon (Middle) Skier

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Wine 505 44 Merlot Scarf, coat accents Continental
Black 993 12 Black Hat, ski poles, gloves, shoes Continental
Elephant 974 144 Truffle Skis Continental
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Skintone Continental
Iron 967 219 Onyx Pants Basketweave
Salmon 622 49 Cantaloupe Ski jacket Basketweave

The middle skier wears salmon shades with classic wine-red accents; I’d start with those. Stitch in Wine along the scarf and coat accents. Work the details of hat, ski poles, gloves, and shoes in Black. Use Elephant for the skis. Then it’s back to Peach for skintone. Again, all of these small detail areas should be stitched using Continental.

The skier's pants come next. Stitch in Iron, using Basketweave. Finish up by filling in that salmon pink ski jacket with Salmon, worked in Basketweave.

Bottom (Orange) Skier

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Wine 505 44 Merlot Coat accents Continental
Elephant 974 144 Truffle Skis, pants accents Continental
Black 993 12 Black Hat, ski poles, gloves, shoes Continental
Peach 701 190 Porcelain Skintone Continental
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Pants Basketweave
Coral 864 82 Pumpkin Ski jacket Basketweave

At the bottom, the orange skier sports hauls skis back to the ski hut. Start with Wine for coat accents. For the subtle accents on the pants and the skis, use Elephant. Go back to Black for the hat, ski poles, gloves, and boots. Flesh out the skintone with Peach. Stitch all of these details in Continental.

Next, work the pants in Dove, using Basketweave. That bold ski jacket? Coral using Basketweave. It’s all about coverage and a bold splash of color.


Trees

Sometimes it can be hard to differentiate the greens of trees. I use a lot of the same color combinations across designs, so that the illustrations hang together well. I've made a visual guide to help you decode which tree colors go where.

Deep Dive: Decoding Tree Colors

Forest Green Trees

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Black 993 12 Black Accents on darkest colored trees Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darkest colored trees on upper right, middle right, lower left Basketweave

For the darkest green trees (upper right, middle right, lower left), begin by stitching the details in Black using Continental. Then, fill the rest with Forest in Basketweave.

Fir Green Trees

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Forest 298 232 Chutney Accents on mid-tone green trees Continental
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Tree behind hut, middle, upper left, and top right Basketweave

For mid-tone green trees, start with Forest for the details, using Continental. Then stitch the background in Fir, using Basketweave. These are the mid-tone green trees behind the hut and those sprinkled across the middle and edges.

Jade Green Trees

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Accents on Jade colored trees Continental
Jade 402 84 Asparagus Tree on middle, upper left, and upper right Basketweave

Start by stitching the details of these trees (middle, upper left, and upper right) in Fir, using Continental. Finish by filling the main color in Jade using Basketweave.

Olive Green Trees

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Accents on Olive colored trees Continental
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Tree on lower left, middle right, and top right Basketweave

Stitch the accents of the trees (lower left, middle right, and top right) with Fir, using Continental. The background (or main) color of the tree is Olive, which you’ll fill in using Basketweave.

Tree Trunks

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree trunks Basketweave

Even trunks need attention! Stitch with Fawn, using Basketweave.


Mountains

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Dove 971 205 Dolphin Lightest mountains Basketweave
Elephant 974 144 Truffle Mid-tone mountains Basketweave
Iron 967 219 Onyx Darkest mountains Basketweave
Bleach 991B 02 White Snow on mountains Basketweave

Mountains anchor this backdrop. They're layered to create a sense of distance. Start with the lightest gray peaks in Dove, using Basketweave. Layer the mid-tone gray next, stitching the next darkest gray in Elephant, using Basketweave. Finish up the mountain backgrounds with the darkest gray color, stitching in Iron, using Basketweave.

The white snow on top is a finishing highlight. Work in Bleach using Basketweave to create a wintry blanket across the mountain range.

Pro tip! White yarn can sometimes look thin because it’s not plumped by dye, so for the snow background, use Bleach in Basketweave.

If you notice the yarn is looking thin, you might consider adding an extra strand for better coverage.


Name

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Name main color Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Name accents Half-Cross

You’re almost there! For the name, I actually change the order I stitch in.

I first stitch the lighter red, main color of the name in Continental, using Scarlet. I keep every letter separate, without long, connecting thread tails. So I would start with a new knot for each letter and tie off each yarn when I’m finished with the letter. This probably isn’t totally necessary, but I want the name to be super crisp, with no chance of thread tails showing through the white name plate.

Finally, I fill in the darker red name accents using Half-Cross to add detail, using Wine.

Here's a how-to video showing how I stitch our classic lettering style in Scarlet & Wine, but the same principles apply if you’re stitching a different colorway, or even a different font!

Deep Dive: Stitching Your Name >


Backgrounds

The big, simple blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings. I think about it like filling in backgrounds after the details are completed.

White Snow

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White Snow on ground Basketweave

The snow on the ground truly completes your winter wonderland. Stitch in Bleach, using Basketweave. Basketweave is essential here since white yarn often runs thin. If you see a thin stitch only here or there, you can just go over it again with another stitch at the end.

Blue Snow Drifts

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Sky and snow on ground Basketweave

For the snowy blue drifts and sky, I love Robin's Egg. Fill these in light blue backgrounds with Basketweave. This is the last thing to bring it all together before stepping back to admire your work. You did it!

Deep Dive: Techniques

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Frequently Asked Questions

Hopefully these answers help answer your questions! You can also check out our YouTube page or Back of Work blog for more tutorials.

If you're still feeling unsure and need a second pair of eyes, send an email to info@spider-spun.com with pictures (close-up pictures) of the front and the back of your stitching. I will do my very best to help!

  • This depends on the yarn you’re using. Our standard kits use Appletons crewel-weight yarn, so you need to use two strands. To do this, thread your needle and knot both of the ends together. Now you have doubled up your yarn and are stitching with two strands. If you’re using a thicker tapestry-weight yarn, like Silk & Ivory, you only need 1 strand.

    If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

  • You should look to the center point — or vertical intersection — your stitch will cross to determine the color. If you still can’t tell, pick the color you think looks best.

  • Make sure to check out the how-to guide for more on stitches, but I mostly use tent stitches for that classic needlepoint look. All these stitches look the same from the front, but have different levels of coverage on the back.

    • Half-Cross: Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again.
    • Continental: I like to use this stitch for any small areas. This stitch has medium coverage.
    • Basketweave: Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave is used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable.

    For detail stitches, especially accent lines, dots, or other tiny details, I break my Tent Stitch habits and embroider over the top of stitches. Some of my favorite stitches to use for this type of work are Stem Stitches and French Knots. Usually by this point, I’ve already stitched over the canvas design, so I use the reference image to estimate the right location.

  • It’s a great question, and one I get a lot. More often than not, there’s not enough stitches to fully encase the thread tails leading to the waste knot, so it can be unwise to clip the knot. The yarn may unravel. You can leave the waste knots to hang out on the front of the canvas until other stitching encases the thread tail leading up to the knot. It will be unsightly for now, but don’t worry about it! You’ll snip them off soon enough.

    You can also stitch a bunch of detail stitches using the same color all at once, so that you don't have to tie off between each one. I would just be careful to limit the thread tails criss-crossing the back to about one inch and be careful of very dark colors that are going to be surrounded by a field of white (like for names). Sometimes you will be able to see dark colors through the white yarn.

  • Dye plumps up fibers, so sometimes white yarn is a bit thinner. This is okay! Wool plumps up when it is blocked and finished. To make sure you get full coverage with white yarn, use Basketweave. If it’s still feeling thin, add another strand!

  • We must mark the edge of a white area, otherwise where would it end?! Stitch over the gray line with the light color next to the line, not gray. Usually, the gray line should be covered with a Cream, Natural, or Bleach yarn.

  • Waste rows are extra stitches around the edge of a design that disappear during the finishing process. If a design has no extra rows, some of the design may be lost when finished. You should ask your finisher about their preferences. If you plan to do your finishing with Spider Spun, we recommend stitching 1-2 waste rows around your project. Use the same color thread as your edge stitches. It’s just a little extension to allow for a seam allowance.

  • I’m a firm believer in the “finish first, edit later” approach to needlepoint. Most of the time, a stitch I thought looked terrible is not noticeable when looking at the end result.

    • If you must fix the stitch now and are only 5-6 stitches past the error, “unwind” the thread by pulling the needle off and using the tip to pick out the stitches out. If the yarn is in okay condition, keep stitching. If it’s gotten scraggly, end the thread and start anew.
    • If you’ve waited to fix your error, cut the offending stitch on the front of the canvas (just the yarn, not the canvas). Use the tip of your needle to unwind a few stitches to the right and the left of the cut. I lay the two ends across the now bare canvas and secure by starting a new thread and stitching over, like the method used to secure a waste knot.
  • You can try to use stitches to make the line a little longer or thicker so that you can stay consistent with stitch direction.
    However, I typically prioritize the drawing direction rather than stitch direction. In these instances (which are very rare), I’ll break the stitch pattern and follow the lines of the drawing in the opposite direction of all other stitches.

  • This is inevitable and totally normal. Don’t fret! Blocking should fix both of these problems (to some extent). During blocking, the fibers will be wet and can be reshaped and the canvas will be straightened out.

    However, there are a couple things you can do to prevent some distortion:

    • Use Basketweave stitch wherever humanly possible
    • Eliminating knots (and subsequent bumps) by using proper starting and ending techniques
    • Limiting canvas distortion by using frames or stretcher bars
    • Keeping thread tension consistent by using the same type and amount of thread throughout
  • As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art.

    After you’ve stitched your design, the raw canvas edges and loose threads need to be carefully secured and shaped so that the piece holds together and looks professional. Depending on the project, finishing can involve stretching and blocking the canvas, adding a backing, sewing it into items like stockings, pillows, ornaments, or even mounting it for framing.

    It can be expensive, but after all the stitch work you did, it’s worth the additional cost to get an object you treasure. You can read more about finishing here >

    Spider Spun does have finishing services! Reach out to us to talk through your ideas and get a quote.