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Overview

We’re so excited for you to start stitching one of our Christmas stockings! This is your stitch guide, which will serve as your road map as you work through this project. It is organized into sections so that you can easily navigate to exactly what you need.

Project Details

- Canvas Details: Interlock #13
- Needle Size: Bohin Tapestry #22
- Number of Colors: 18

I believe that anyone can stitch an heirloom and I believe that perfectly imperfect stitching is gorgeous. I include this illustration as a reminder that this is what the design will look like when you’ve finished stitching. So, if you ever get too obsessed with that single weird stitch, take a breath, look at this image, and think about the bigger picture.

Design Image

The Basics of Stitching

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The Basics of Stitching

Using the Right Number of Threads

For a 13-count canvas (which is what you have), I suggest knotting together these amounts:

  • 6-strand metallic: one strand
  • 2-ply crewel wool (like Appletons crewel wool): two strands
  • 4-ply tapestry yarn (like Silk & Ivory): one strand
  • 6-strand embroidery floss: one strand
  • No. 8 perle cotton: two strands

Note: Appletons 2-ply crewel wool is my favorite, and what I provide with most Spider Spun kits.

If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

The Basics of Stitching

Choosing the Correct Color

If there is any doubt, like if there seems to be more than one color on an intersection, you should stitch with the color that is most prominent on that intersection. 

The Basics of Stitching

Starting A New Thread

Assuming you’re using two strands, thread a 30-ish inch length through the needle and knot the ends together. When knotted, it should be about the length from your hand to your elbow.

  1. Poke the needle through the front of the canvas about five holes away from where you’ll start stitching. There’s an ugly “waste knot” on the front of the canvas, but you’ll cut it off shortly.
  2. Bring the needle from the back of the canvas to the front at your starting point. There should be a half-inch of thread stretched across the back, connecting the waste knot to your first stitch. 
  3. Stitch toward the knot, encasing the thread tail. Once your stitches reach the waste knot, carefully snip it off from the front.
Tip icon
Pro Tip!

Once you get comfortable stitching and have a few more stitches on your canvas, you won’t need to knot your yarn every single time. You can just thread the needle and make sure the ends are even. Then, pull the needle through a few stitches on the back of the canvas (like how you would tie off a thread), and poke the needle up through the front where you want to begin stitching.

The Basics of Stitching

Ending A Thread

  1. When you have about three inches of thread left on the needle, take your needle to the back of the canvas.
  2. Insert the needle through five or so existing stitches, then pull taut. You may have noticed that this is the reverse of how you started the thread :)
  3. Snip the thread tail just outside the stitches. 

The Basics of Stitching

All About Tent Stitches

The most basic (and classic) needlepoint stitches are called “tent stitches.” Put simply, needlepoint is one diagonal stitch over each intersection of your canvas.

Tent stitches always slant from the lower left to the upper right, like this: /////

There are three types of tent stitches: Half-Cross Stitch, Continental Stitch, and Basketweave Stitch. All look the same from the front, but different on the back of the canvas. Each provides a different amount of structure and coverage.

You don’t have to stick to just one type of stitch for each project. In fact, most of my canvases are a mixture of all three types of tent stitches.

If you are lost in a specific area, you can pop over to the Stitch Guide section to see exactly which stitches I recommend.

Half-Cross Stitch

Half-Cross Stitch

Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again to make the detail pop.

Learn More
Continental Stitch

Continental Stitch

I like to use this stitch for any small area. This stitch has medium coverage. It’s not ideal for medium or large areas because it causes the canvas to skew. But if you can't figure out basketweave, you can use this everywhere!

Learn More
Basketweave Stitch

Basketweave Stitch

Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave should be used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable than the other tent stitches.

Learn More

Your Stitch Plan

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Your Stitch Plan

Order of Operations

If you’re wondering about which colors or stitches to use on a specific area, here is how I would approach stitching this design. This is certainly not the only way to do it, but if you’re looking at the canvas and wondering where to start, hopefully this helps.

Just remember, there are no needlepoint police — it’s totally okay if you don’t follow these rules. Stitch in a way that makes you happy :)

Design Image

Stitching by area of the canvas

I stitch by “area” of the canvas. Within each area, I first stitch the tiny details, then move on to the small and medium areas. At the very end of each section, I will fill in the larger sections, which are usually backgrounds. The big blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings.

My suggested order of operations

1. Gifts (boxes, box accents, bow accents, bows)
2. Tree decorations
3. Tree foliage
4. Name
5. Rug, background

If you’re a beginner…

If you're a beginner, I recommend you practice your stitches a little first. On this canvas, I would start by trying out the Continental Stitch on one of the gift boxes. Then, I would move on to trying out the Basketweave Stitch on a different colored gift box! Once you get confident with your stitching, you can move onto whichever area compels you.

Your Stitch Plan

Thread Color Key

Each yarn requires a different amount of strands. Please follow these guidelines to stitch your stocking:

  • Appletons crewel wool: stitch using 2 strands of yarn
  • Silk & Ivory: stitch using 1 strand of yarn
Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement
Rose 205 146 Guava • Gifts - Gift 3 — Pink, Bottom Gift of Gift Stack: Main color of gift box
• Tree - Tree Decorations: Pink ornaments
• Gifts - Gift 7 — Red, Bottom Gift on the Stocking Toe: Lighter accent color of bow
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed • Gifts - Gift 2 — Green, Top Gift of Gift Stack: Main color of gift box
• Gifts - Gift 5 — Purple Gift: Main color of bow
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle • Name: Name main color
• Background - Rug: Backgrounds
• Tree - Tree Foliage: Mid-green tone of tree branches
Forest 298 232 Chutney • Gifts - Gift 2 — Green, Top Gift of Gift Stack: Darker gift box accent
• Name: Name accents
• Tree - Tree Foliage: Darkest green tone of tree branches
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree - Tree Foliage: Tree trunk
Mint 353 182 Killarney Tree - Tree Foliage: Lightest, mint tone of tree branches
Gold 473 88 Dandelion • Gifts - Gift 6 — Blue, Top Gift on the Stocking Toe: Main color of bow
• Gifts - Gift 1 — Red, Leftmost Gift: Lighter accent color of bow
• Tree - Tree Decorations: Tree topper star and gold ornaments
• Gifts - Gift 4 — Orange Gift: Main color of bow
Amber 475 175 Nutmeg • Gifts - Gift 6 — Blue, Top Gift on the Stocking Toe: Lighter accent color of bow
• Gifts - Gift 1 — Red, Leftmost Gift: Main color of bow
• Tree - Tree Candles: Darker yellow candle flames
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red • Gifts - Gift 7 — Red, Bottom Gift on the Stocking Toe: Main color of gift box
• Tree - Tree Decorations: Red ornaments
• Gifts - Gift 1 — Red, Leftmost Gift: Main color of gift box
Wine 505 44 Merlot • Gifts - Gift 4 — Orange Gift: Darker accent color of bow
• Gifts - Gift 3 — Pink, Bottom Gift of Gift Stack: Darker gift box and bow accent
• Gifts - Gift 7 — Red, Bottom Gift on the Stocking Toe: Darker gift box accent
• Gifts - Gift 1 — Red, Leftmost Gift: Darker gift box accent
• Tree - Tree Candles: Dark red candles
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl • Gifts - Gift 6 — Blue, Top Gift on the Stocking Toe: Main color of gift box
• Tree - Tree Decorations: Light blue ornaments
• Gifts - Gift 2 — Green, Top Gift of Gift Stack: Main color of bow
Lavender 601 100 Amethyst Gifts - Gift 5 — Purple Gift: Main color of gift box
Lilac 605 117 Sugarplum Gifts - Gift 5 — Purple Gift: Darker accent color of gift box
Royal 823 101 Larkspur • Gifts - Gift 2 — Green, Top Gift of Gift Stack: Darker accent color of bow
• Gifts - Gift 6 — Blue, Top Gift on the Stocking Toe: Darker gift box accent
Clementine 862 138 Apricot Gifts - Gift 4 — Orange Gift: Main color of gift box
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream • Gifts - Gift 7 — Red, Bottom Gift on the Stocking Toe: Main color of bow
• Background - Wall: Backgrounds
• Gifts - Gift 3 — Pink, Bottom Gift of Gift Stack: Lighter accent color of bow
Dove 971 217 Pewter Tree - Tree Decorations: Grey ornament strings
Bleach 991B 02 White • Name - Nameplate: Nameplate
• Tree - Tree Decorations: White ornament highlights

Step-by-Step Stitch Guide

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Gifts

I would start with the gifts on this canvas. It really doesn't matter if you stitch the red gift before the pink gift, or vice versa. I've just listed them out in order from left to right for the sake of clarity.

This area has quite a few charming details, with quite a few thread changes :) A few tips about thread changes for small details:

  • You don't have to tie off between every tiny stitch, if you're using the same color. I am a pretty lazy stitcher, so I usually do not. I do all the stitches for a given color at once, and then tie off when I'm done. I'm just careful to leave enough yarn on the back so the canvas isn't getting distorted by pulling too tightly on the back. It should be just a tiny bit slack on the back
  • You don't have to start a thread with the waste knot method every single time. You can use existing stitches to bury the thread tails. On the back of the canvas, just slip a needle with unknotted thread through about 5 stitches, then bring it up through the front. Be careful not to pull too tightly on that first stitch in case your yarn slips out.

Gift 1 — Red, Leftmost Gift

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Amber 475 175 Nutmeg Main color of bow Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Lighter accent color of bow Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Darker gift box accent Basketweave
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Main color of gift box Basketweave

Start with the main color of the bow in Amber using Continental or Basketweave.

Add the lighter accent color of the bow in Gold using Continental.

Work the darker gift box accent in Wine using Basketweave.

Fill the main color of the gift box in Scarlet using Basketweave.

Gift 2 — Green, Top Gift of Gift Stack

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Main color of bow Continental
Royal 823 101 Larkspur Darker accent color of bow Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darker gift box accent Basketweave
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Main color of gift box Basketweave

Stitch the main color of the bow in Robin's Egg using Continental or Basketweave.

Add the darker accent color of the bow in Royal using Continental.

Work the darker gift box accent in Forest using Basketweave.

Fill the main color of the gift box in Olive using Basketweave.

Gift 3 — Pink, Bottom Gift of Gift Stack

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream Lighter accent color of bow Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Darker gift box and bow accent Basketweave
Rose 205 146 Guava Main color of gift box Basketweave

Stitch the lighter accent color of the bow in Cream using Continental.

Work the darker gift box and bow accent in Wine using Basketweave.

Fill the main color of the gift box in Rose using Basketweave.

Gift 4 — Orange Gift

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Main color of bow Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Darker accent color of bow Continental
Clementine 862 138 Apricot Main color of gift box Basketweave

Stitch the main color of the bow in Gold using Continental.

Add the darker accent color of the bow in Wine using Continental.

Fill the main color of the gift box in Clementine using Basketweave.

Gift 5 — Purple Gift

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Olive 241 168 Tumbleweed Main color of bow Continental
Lilac 605 117 Sugarplum Darker accent color of gift box Continental
Lavender 601 100 Amethyst Main color of gift box Basketweave

Work the main color of the bow in Olive using Continental.

Add the darker accent color of the gift box in Lilac using Continental.

Fill the main color of the gift box in Lavender using Basketweave.

Gift 6 — Blue, Top Gift on the Stocking Toe

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Main color of bow Continental
Amber 475 175 Nutmeg Lighter accent color of bow Continental
Royal 823 101 Larkspur Darker gift box accent Basketweave
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Main color of gift box Basketweave

Stitch the main color of the bow in Gold using Continental or Basketweave.

Add the lighter accent color of the bow in Amber using Continental.

Work the darker gift box accent in Royal using Basketweave.

Fill the main color of the gift box in Robin's Egg using Basketweave.

Gift 7 — Red, Bottom Gift on the Stocking Toe

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream Main color of bow Continental
Rose 205 146 Guava Lighter accent color of bow Continental
Wine 505 44 Merlot Darker gift box accent Basketweave
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Main color of gift box Basketweave

Stitch the main color of the bow in Cream using Continental or Basketweave.

Add the lighter accent color of the bow in Rose using Continental.

Work the darker gift box accent in Wine using Basketweave.

Fill the main color of the gift box in Scarlet using Basketweave.

Tree

Pro tip! The tree branches are feathery, especially at the edges. It's easy to get carried away with stitching one color and encroach a little on another. I wouldn't get too worked up if I missed a stitch here or there, or accidentally used the wrong color in a place or two. Just make sure to go back at the end of your work to ensure all the intersections are covered.

Tree Decorations

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Bleach 991B 02 White White ornament highlights Half-Cross
Rose 205 146 Guava Pink ornaments Continental
Gold 473 88 Dandelion Tree topper star and gold ornaments Continental
Robin's Egg 522 159 Beryl Light blue ornaments Continental
Scarlet 503 11 Really Red Red ornaments Continental
Dove 971 217 Pewter Grey ornament strings Continental

There's no right way to do the tree decorations. You can stitch from top to bottom, or bottom to top. You may want to do all the pink ornaments first, then the red. The order doesn't really matter! I would probably move around the canvas stitching whatever looks fun :) Regardless of how you choose to stitch, here's a guide to tackle it in a logical way.

First, stitch the white ornament highlights in Bleach using Half-Cross or Continental. I would stitch a bunch of the highlights at once, without cutting your yarn in between. Just make sure to leave enough slack at the back as you bop around the canvas.

Work the pink ornaments in Rose using Continental.

Add the gold ornaments in Gold using Continental. For the tree topper star, I would probably switch to stitching in Basketweave.

Stitch the light blue ornaments in Robin's Egg using Continental.

Work the red ornaments in Scarlet using Continental.

Add the grey ornament strings in Dove using Continental.

Tree Candles

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Wine 505 44 Merlot Dark red candles Continental
Amber 475 175 Nutmeg Darker yellow candle flames Continental

Stitch the dark red candles in Wine using Continental.

Next, work the darker yellow candle flames in Amber using Continental.

Tree Foliage

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fawn 304 228 Rye Tree trunk Basketweave
Mint 353 182 Killarney Lightest, mint tone of tree branches Basketweave
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Mid-green tone of tree branches Basketweave
Forest 298 232 Chutney Darkest green tone of tree branches Basketweave

Stitch the tree trunk in Fawn using Basketweave.

For the foliage, it again doesn't really matter which order you stitch in! Work the lightest, mint tone of tree branches in Mint using Basketweave.

Add the mid-green tone of tree branches in Fir using Basketweave.

Fill the darkest green tone of tree branches in Forest using Basketweave.

Name Area

Here's a how-to video showing how I stitch our classic lettering style in Scarlet & Wine, but the same principles apply if you’re stitching a different colorway, or even a different font!

Deep Dive: Stitching Your Name →

I stitch one letter at a time and one color at a time. I tend to tie off between letters, just to keep everything super crisp. I think it’s especially important to do this if you’re stitching a name with a white background. It’s less important if you have a dark background behind the name because the thread tails are unlikely to show through. To keep things easy for myself, I just tie off between letters 🙂

Name

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Name main color Continental
Forest 298 232 Chutney Name accents Half-Cross

You’re almost there! For the name, I actually change the order I stitch in.

I first stitch the lighter green, main color of the name in Continental, using Fir. I keep every letter separate, without long, connecting thread tails. So I would start with a new knot for each letter and tie off each yarn when I’m finished with the letter. This probably isn’t totally necessary, but I want the name to be super crisp, with no chance of thread tails showing through the white name plate.

Finally, I fill in the darker green name accents using Half-Cross to add detail, using Forest.

Backgrounds

The big, simple blocks of color are often the very last thing I complete on any stockings. I think about it like filling in backgrounds after the details are completed.

Wall

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Cream 871 171 Whipped Cream Backgrounds Basketweave

Stitch the wall background in Cream, using Basketweave.

Rug

Color Appletons Silk & Ivory Placement Suggested Stitch
Fir 295 107 Dill Pickle Backgrounds Basketweave

You're almost finished! Work the rug in Fir, using - you guessed it - Basketweave.

Deep Dive: Techniques

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How To: Stitch Your Name

How To: Stitch Your Name

Here’s a stitchalong video of how I generally stitch the names, first with the main color, then with the accent color, stitching one letter at-a-time.

Learn More
Decoding Tree Colors

Decoding Tree Colors

Sometimes it can be hard to differentiate the greens of trees. I use a lot of the same color combinations across designs. Here's a guide to help you decode which tree colors go where.

Learn More
All About Finishing

All About Finishing

As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art. 

Learn More

Frequently Asked Questions

Hopefully these answers help answer your questions! You can also check out our YouTube page or Back of Work blog for more tutorials.

If you're still feeling unsure and need a second pair of eyes, send an email to info@spider-spun.com with pictures (close-up pictures) of the front and the back of your stitching. I will do my very best to help!

  • This depends on the yarn you’re using. Our standard kits use Appletons crewel-weight yarn, so you need to use two strands. To do this, thread your needle and knot both of the ends together. Now you have doubled up your yarn and are stitching with two strands. If you’re using a thicker tapestry-weight yarn, like Silk & Ivory, you only need 1 strand.

    If you want to play with different threads, here’s a post all about needlepoint thread >

  • You should look to the center point — or vertical intersection — your stitch will cross to determine the color. If you still can’t tell, pick the color you think looks best.

  • Make sure to check out the how-to guide for more on stitches, but I mostly use tent stitches for that classic needlepoint look. All these stitches look the same from the front, but have different levels of coverage on the back.

    • Half-Cross: Stitch used for tiny detail areas. I mean, really tiny, like one stitch for a highlight or an eye. This stitch has very little coverage. If it looks thin, I will often stitch back over the stitch again.
    • Continental: I like to use this stitch for any small areas. This stitch has medium coverage.
    • Basketweave: Stitch used for medium to large areas, especially backgrounds. Basketweave is used on almost all areas with white. It provides more coverage and is more durable.

    For detail stitches, especially accent lines, dots, or other tiny details, I break my Tent Stitch habits and embroider over the top of stitches. Some of my favorite stitches to use for this type of work are Stem Stitches and French Knots. Usually by this point, I’ve already stitched over the canvas design, so I use the reference image to estimate the right location.

  • It’s a great question, and one I get a lot. More often than not, there’s not enough stitches to fully encase the thread tails leading to the waste knot, so it can be unwise to clip the knot. The yarn may unravel. You can leave the waste knots to hang out on the front of the canvas until other stitching encases the thread tail leading up to the knot. It will be unsightly for now, but don’t worry about it! You’ll snip them off soon enough.

    You can also stitch a bunch of detail stitches using the same color all at once, so that you don't have to tie off between each one. I would just be careful to limit the thread tails criss-crossing the back to about one inch and be careful of very dark colors that are going to be surrounded by a field of white (like for names). Sometimes you will be able to see dark colors through the white yarn.

  • Dye plumps up fibers, so sometimes white yarn is a bit thinner. This is okay! Wool plumps up when it is blocked and finished. To make sure you get full coverage with white yarn, use Basketweave. If it’s still feeling thin, add another strand!

  • We must mark the edge of a white area, otherwise where would it end?! Stitch over the gray line with the light color next to the line, not gray. Usually, the gray line should be covered with a Cream, Natural, or Bleach yarn.

  • Waste rows are extra stitches around the edge of a design that disappear during the finishing process. If a design has no extra rows, some of the design may be lost when finished. You should ask your finisher about their preferences. If you plan to do your finishing with Spider Spun, we recommend stitching 1-2 waste rows around your project. Use the same color thread as your edge stitches. It’s just a little extension to allow for a seam allowance.

  • I’m a firm believer in the “finish first, edit later” approach to needlepoint. Most of the time, a stitch I thought looked terrible is not noticeable when looking at the end result.

    • If you must fix the stitch now and are only 5-6 stitches past the error, “unwind” the thread by pulling the needle off and using the tip to pick out the stitches out. If the yarn is in okay condition, keep stitching. If it’s gotten scraggly, end the thread and start anew.
    • If you’ve waited to fix your error, cut the offending stitch on the front of the canvas (just the yarn, not the canvas). Use the tip of your needle to unwind a few stitches to the right and the left of the cut. I lay the two ends across the now bare canvas and secure by starting a new thread and stitching over, like the method used to secure a waste knot.

  • You can try to use stitches to make the line a little longer or thicker so that you can stay consistent with stitch direction.
    However, I typically prioritize the drawing direction rather than stitch direction. In these instances (which are very rare), I’ll break the stitch pattern and follow the lines of the drawing in the opposite direction of all other stitches.

  • This is inevitable and totally normal. Don’t fret! Blocking should fix both of these problems (to some extent). During blocking, the fibers will be wet and can be reshaped and the canvas will be straightened out.

    However, there are a couple things you can do to prevent some distortion:

    • Use Basketweave stitch wherever humanly possible
    • Eliminating knots (and subsequent bumps) by using proper starting and ending techniques
    • Limiting canvas distortion by using frames or stretcher bars
    • Keeping thread tension consistent by using the same type and amount of thread throughout

  • As you near the end of your project, it’s time to think about “finishing” it. Finishing transforms your stitched canvas from a work-in-progress to a work of art.

    After you’ve stitched your design, the raw canvas edges and loose threads need to be carefully secured and shaped so that the piece holds together and looks professional. Depending on the project, finishing can involve stretching and blocking the canvas, adding a backing, sewing it into items like stockings, pillows, ornaments, or even mounting it for framing.

    It can be expensive, but after all the stitch work you did, it’s worth the additional cost to get an object you treasure. You can read more about finishing here >

    Spider Spun does have finishing services! Reach out to us to talk through your ideas and get a quote.